The leading royal roads which connect the capital with the principal
seaports are, indeed, excellent; but they are generally drawn in a
straight line, whereby many of the most ancient cities are thus left
out, and these, together with sites of battles and historical incident,
ruins and remains of antiquity, and scenes of the greatest natural
beauty, are accessible with difficulty, and in many cases only on
horseback. Spain abounds with wide tracts which are perfectly unknown to
the Geographical Society. Here, indeed, is fresh ground open to all who
aspire in these threadbare days to book something new; here is scenery
enough to fill a dozen portfolios, and subject enough for a score of
quartos. How many flowers pine unbotanised, how many rocks harden
ungeologised; what views are dying to be sketched; what bears and deer
to be stalked; what trout to be caught and eaten; what valleys expand
their bosoms, longing to embrace their visitor; what virgin beauties
hitherto unseen await the happy member of the Travellers’ Club, who in
ten days can exchange the bore of eternal Pall Mall for these untrodden
sites; and then what an accession of dignity in thus discovering a terra
incognita, and rivalling Mr. Mungo Park! Nor is a guide wanting, since
our good friend John Murray, the grand monarque of Handbooks, has
proclaimed from Albemarle Street, _Il n’y a plus de Pyrénées_.
[Sidenote: HINTS TO TRAVELLERS.]
As the wide extent of country which intervenes between the radii of the
great roads is most indifferently provided with public means of
inter-communication; as there is little traffic, and no demand for
modern conveyances--even mules and horses are not always to be procured,
and we have always found it best to set out on these distant excursions
with our own beasts: the comfort and certainty of this precaution have
been corroborated beyond any doubt by frequent comparisons with the
discomforts undergone by other persons, who trusted to chance
accommodations and means of locomotion in ill-provided districts and
out-of-the-way excursions: indeed, as a general rule, the traveller will
do well to carry with him everything with which from habit he feels that
he cannot dispense. The chief object will be to combine in as small a
space as possible the greatest quantity of portable comfort, taking care
to select the really essential; for there is no worse mistake than
lumbering oneself with things that are never wanted. This mode of
travelling has not been much detailed by the generality of authors, who
have rarely gone much out of the beaten track, or undertaken a
long-continued riding tour, and they have been rather inclined to
overstate the dangers and difficulties of a plan which they have never
tried. At the same time this plan is not to be recommended to fine
ladies nor to delicate gentlemen, nor to those who have had a touch of
rheumatism, or who tremble at the shadows which coming gout casts before
it.
[Sidenote: HEALTHFUL EXERCISE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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