However confidently we have relied on past experience that such would
not be our fate, yet these sorts of Spanish milestones marked with
memento mori, are awkward evidences that the thing is not altogether
impossible. It makes a single gentleman, whose life is not insured, not
only trust to Santiago, but keep his powder dry, and look every now and
then if his percussion cap fits. On these occasions the falling in with
any of the nomade half-Bedouin natives is a sort of godsend; their
society is quite different from that of a regular companion, for better
or worse until death us do part, as it is casual, and may be taken up or
dropped at convenience. The habits of all Spaniards when on the road are
remarkably gregarious; a common fear acts as a cement, while the more
they are in number the merrier. It is hail! well met, fellow-traveller!
and the being glad to see each other is an excellent introduction. The
sight of passengers bound our way is like speaking a strange sail on the
Atlantic, _Hola Camara!_ ship a-hoy. This predisposition tends to make
all travellers write so much and so handsomely of the lower classes of
Spaniards, not indeed more than they deserve, for they are a fine, noble
race. Something of this arises, because on such occasions all parties
meet on an equality; and this levelling effect, perhaps unperceived,
induces many a foreigner, however proud and reserved at home, to unbend,
and that unaffectedly. He treats these accidental acquaintances quite
differently from the manner in which he would venture to treat the lower
orders of his own country, who, probably, if conciliated by the same
condescension of manner, would appear in a more amiable light, although
they are inferior to the Spaniard in his Oriental goodness of manner,
his perfect tact, his putting himself and others into their proper
place, without either self-degradation or vulgar assumption of social
equality or superior physical powers.
[Sidenote: FRIENDSHIPS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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