[Sidenote: THE RIDER’S COSTUME.] CHAPTER IX. The Rider’s Costume--Alforjas: their contents--The Bota, and How to use it--Pig Skins and Borracha--Spanish Money--Onzas and smaller Coins. The rider’s costume and accoutrements require consideration; his great object should be to pass in a crowd, either unnoticed, or to be taken for “one of us,” _Uno de Nosotros_, and a member of the Iberian family--_de la Familia_: this is best effected by adopting the dress, that is usually worn by the natives when they travel on horseback, or journey by any of their national conveyances, among which Anglo-Franco mails and diligences are not yet to be reckoned; all classes of Spaniards, on getting outside the town-gate, assume country habits, and eschew the long-tailed coats and civilization of the city; they drop pea-jackets and foreign fashions, which would only attract attention, and expose the wearers to the ridicule or coarser marks of consideration from the peasantry, muleteers, and other gentry, who rule on the road, hate novelties, and hold fast to the ways and jackets of their forefathers; the best hat, therefore, is the common _sombrero calanes_, which resemble those worn at Astley’s by banditti, being of a conical shape, is edged with black velvet, ornamented with silken tufts, and looks equally well on a cockney from London, or on a squire from Devonshire. The jacket should be the universal fur _Zamarra_, which is made of black sheepskin, in its ordinary form, and of lambskin for those who can pay; a sash round the waist should never be forgotten, being most useful both in reality and metaphor: it sustains the loins, and keeps off the dangerous colics of Spain, by maintaining an equable heat over the abdomen; hence, to be Homerically well girt is half the battle for the Peninsular traveller. [Sidenote: THE ALFORJAS.] The _capa_ the cloak, or the _manta_ a striped plaid, and saddle-bags, the _Alforjas_, are absolute essentials, and should be strapped on the pommel of the saddle, as being there less heating to the horse than when placed on his flanks, and being in front, they are more handy for sudden use, since in the mountains and valleys, the rider is constantly exposed to sudden variations of wind and weather; when Æolus and Sol contend for his cloak, as in Æsop’s Fables, and the buckets of heaven are emptied on him as soon as the god of fire thinks him sufficiently baked. These saddle-bags are most classical, Oriental, and convenient; they indeed constitute the genus _bagsman_, and have given their name to our riding travellers; they are the _Sarcinæ_ of Cato the Censor, the _Bulgæ_ of Lucilius, who made an epigram thereon:-- “Cum _bulgâ_ cœnat, dormit, lavat, omnis in unâ. Spes hominis _bulga_ hâc devincta est cætera vita:” which, as these indispensables are quite as necessary to the modern Spaniard, may be thus translated:--