Geological Observations on South AmericaDarwin, Charles
Science
Geological Observations on South America
Darwin, Charles
Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Geology -- South America; Mollusks, Fossil -- South America; Paleontology
To the south this basin-like plain contracts, and rising scarcely
perceptibly with a smooth surface, passes through a remarkable level
gap in the mountains, forming a true land-strait, and called the
Angostura. It then immediately expands into a second basin-formed
plain: this again to the south contracts into another land-strait, and
expands into a third basin, which, however, falls suddenly in level
about forty feet. This third basin, to the south, likewise contracts
into a strait, and then again opens into the great plain of San
Fernando, stretching so far south that the snowy peaks of the distant
Cordillera are seen rising above its horizon as above the sea. These
plains, near the Cordillera, are generally formed of a thick stratified
mass of shingle (The plain of San Fernando has, according to MM. Meyen
and Gay “Reise” etc. Th. 1 ss. 295 and 298, near the Cordillera, an
upper step-formed plain of clay, on the surface of which they found
numerous blocks of rocks, from two to three feet long, either lying
single or piled in heaps, but all arranged in nearly straight lines.);
in other parts, of a red sandy clay, often with an admixture of
pumiceous matter. Although these basins are connected together like a
necklace, in a north and south line, by smooth land-straits, the
streams which drain them do not all flow north and south, but mostly
westward, through breaches worn in the bounding mountains; and in the
case of the second basin, or that of Rancagua, there are two distinct
breaches. Each basin, moreover, is not drained singly; thus, to give
the most striking instance, but not the only one, in proceeding
southward over the plain of Rancagua, we first find the water flowing
northward to and through the northern land-strait; then, without
crossing any marked ridge or watershed, we see it flowing
south-westward towards the northern one of the two breaches in the
western mountainous boundary; and lastly, again without any ridge, it
flows towards the southern breach in these same mountains. Hence the
surface of this one basin-like plain, appearing to the eye so level,
has been modelled with great nicety, so that the drainage, without any
conspicuous watersheds, is directed towards three openings in the
encircling mountains. ((It appears from Captain Herbert’s account of
the Diluvium of the Himalaya, “Gleanings of Science” Calcutta volume 2
page 164, that precisely similar remarks apply to the drainage of the
plains or valleys between those great mountains.) The streams flowing
from the southern basin-like plains, after passing through the breaches
to the west, unite and form the river Rapel, which enters the Pacific
near Navidad. I followed the southernmost branch of this river, and
found that the basin or plain of San Fernando is continuously and
smoothly united with those plains, which were described in the Second
Chapter, as being worn near the coast into successive cave-eaten
escarpments, and still nearer to the coast, as being strewed with
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