Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The path conducted us to the Sibyl’s Cave, a long narrow cavern cut in
the rocks, beneath the palaces and villas, and which leads to nothing.
These cuttings are curious as connected with the religious rites of
antiquity, and Virgil probably had an eye to them in his descent to
the nether world. We found a Styx within them, and seeing no Charon,
but one who offered to carry us on his shoulders, we returned to try
another route.
We retraced our steps to the beach, and visited some hot springs and
remains of baths, which, right or wrong, have the reputation of once
belonging to a country palace of Nero. The frequent occurrence of
ruins in all this region is to me a constant matter of wonder. They
embrace all ages, down to our own. Here is a broken pile on a rock,--it
is a retreat of Tiberius; that on the opposite peak was inhabited by
some Goth. This is the dilapidated residence of a Bourbon; yonder is
a fallen citadel of the barbarians; and temples to all the gods of
antiquity, with remains of churches erected in honour of the Ancient of
days, dot the eminences and valleys!
We embarked and proceeded to Baiæ itself, a mere hamlet, to-day. Here
are some tolerable remains, one in particular of a temple in honour
of Venus, and also the heavy pile of citadel that is visible from
Sorrento. We lingered on this site of Roman taste and indulgence
several hours, and finding the day on the wane, bethought us of the
coming night. The consul recommended Ischia, when we embarked with a
light wind, and made sail in that direction. We glided immediately
beneath Mysenum, which, for a novelty in this part of the world, is
a high _sandy_ bluff; though all the Baiæan shore is more or less of
sand. We looked into the little port, where the Roman galleys formerly
lay, and whence Pliny departed when he proceeded to Stabia, to meet
his death from the volcano. It is a small circular haven, with a
very shallow draught of water at present, the padrone saying that the
_Divina Providenza_ would find little enough for her wants. It was in
part artificial, and the remains of the works are still distinctly to
be traced.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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