Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
kind, which, though it does not awe, leaves behind it a tender
sensation allied to that of love. I can conceive of even an ardent
admirer of Nature wearying in time of the grandeur of the Alps; but I
can scarce imagine one who could ever tire of the witchery of Italy.
Climate has a great influence in bringing about these results. As the
greater portion of the United States lies south of Naples, you may
wish to know why we do not possess the same advantages. We want the
accessories. A volcanic formation puts all competition at defiance,
in the way of the picturesque. This feature alone frequently renders
mountains of no great elevation in themselves sublime, while others of
twice their height are tame. We want the water, the promontories, the
bays, the peninsulas, the grand islands, and lastly, we want all the
quaint and time-honoured forms that art assumed, in this region, three
thousand years ago, seemingly never to abandon them.
Our attempts to obtain lodgings at the town of Ischia were
unsuccessful, and we shaped our course for a villa on the coast two
or three miles distant, where we were received. Our _coucher_ was a
little unsophisticated, most of the party using mattresses on the
floor; but we had brought tea with us, and made a good supper. Italy
pays the penalty for the warmth that is thrown around its landscapes,
in having little milk, the article, of all others, in which its great
rival Switzerland abounds. Wine can be had any where, as may oil; but
the excellent tribute of the cow is hard to be got. We found maccaroni,
however, which is as much a standing dish in Naples as rice in Carolina.
Arrangements for the night were soon made. Every body had a mattress;
though I afterwards found that Gelsomina slept in an open gallery, and
Roberto in the cellar. The idea of putting two people in the same bed,
even if married, scarcely ever comes into the heads of the Europeans
of the continent; nearly every bed-room of the least pretension,
if intended for the use of two, having its two beds. I have seen
double-beds in Italy, it is true; but they were as large as small
houses. That peculiar sentiment of the Western American, who “wondered
that any man should be such a hog as to wish a bed all to himself,”
appears never to have suggested itself to a people so destitute of
“energy.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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