Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
At Genoa I remained two days. To the peculiar attractions of a port,
and that too a port of the Mediterranean, where added the magnificence
and glories of a capital. Every one has read of the palaces of this
town, the _Strada Balbi_ probably having no equal, in its way, in any
other European capital. It is not wide, is without side walks, and
but for the structures that line its two sides, would offer nothing
remarkable. For more than a mile, however, it is a succession of
edifices, that, in any other country but Italy, would be deemed fit for
royalty. The Faubourg St. Germain has more large hotels, certainly;
but the architecture is better here, and the material much superior
to that in use in France. I should think that in the material point
of gardens, the French capital has greatly the advantage. I entered
several of these fine houses, which were generally remarkable for their
marbles, staircases, and paintings. That of Sava is known all over
Europe for a saloon that is covered with mirrors which reflect its half
columns in a way to give it the air of a fairy palace. This room, when
well lighted, must present an extraordinary sight; though it is rather
small for its style of ornament. I have seen many rooms decorated in
this mode, but never one with the blended magnificence and simplicity
that are to be observed here. Generally the effect has been that of a
toy,--a sort of German prettiness, or German conceit; but there was
none of this in the Sava palace. The master of this noble house is
not _compos mentis_, though quiet and harmless. He was seated over a
brazier, in an ante-chamber, in the company of the ladies, as I passed
through; and he rose politely to return my bow, muttering some words
of compliment. It may be that he has a simple satisfaction in this
amusement, but it struck me painfully. The antics of the carnival were
acting in this fine street.
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