Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
I saw the palace of the king, and some of the pictures; that of the
Feast of Cana in particular. But the town, the scenery, and the port
most attracted me. Genoa lies at the base of a hill, around the head
of a large cove, which has been converted into a fine harbour by means
of two moles. One quarter of the town actually stands on low cliffs
that are washed by the sea, which must sometimes throw its spray into
the streets. Its position consequently unites the several beauties of a
gorgeous capital with all its works of art, the movement and bustle of
a port, the view of a sea with passing ships and its varying aspects of
calms and tempests, with a background of stupendous hills; for at this
point the Alps send out those grand accessories to their magnificence,
the Apennines. The place is fortified, and the nature of the ground
requiring that the adjacent hill should be included, the _enceinte_ is
large enough to contain all Paris. On the side of the cliffs and at the
moles, are water batteries; the entire port is separated from the town
by a high wall, which, while it does little more in the way of defence
than protect the revenue, offers a peculiarly beautiful promenade,
which overlooks the busy and picturesque little haven. Towards the land
the works are more regular, and are intended for defence. The ascent is
rapid after one is out of the streets; and the walls, flanked by forts,
follow the line of a ridge, that is shaped like an irregular triangle,
which by falling off precipitously towards the country, supersedes the
necessity of ditches.
I took a horse and made the circuit of the walls. The day was mild,
but had passing clouds; and some of the views towards the interior
were of an extraordinary character. A deep valley separated us from
the district around the works; and there were several fine glimpses,
in a sort of wild perspective, among the recesses of the mountains.--I
scarcely remember a scene of more peculiar wildness blended with
beauty, than some of these glimpses offered; though the passing clouds
and the season perhaps contributed to the effect. The inland views
resembled some of the backgrounds of the pictures of Leonardo da Vinci.
Indeed, it is only in Italy, and among its romantic heights with their
castle-resembling village and towns, that one first gets an accurate
notion of the models that the older masters painted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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