Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
At day-light next day, the wind being still fair, but very light, we
got under way, and stood to the southward, having lost at least forty
miles of our run, by stopping in at Piombino. About eight, the wind
came ahead, and we made several stretches, until ten, when it fell
calm. There was a small rocky islet, about a mile from us, and we swept
the felucca up to it, and anchored in a little sandy bay. The padrone
said this island was called Troas. It contained about thirty acres
being a high rock with a little shrubbery, and it was surmounted by an
ancient and ruined watch-tower.
We landed and explored the country. Our arrival gave the alarm to some
thousands of gulls, and other marine birds, who probably had not been
disturbed before for years.
W---- undertook to ascend to the tower,--an exploit that was more
easily achieved than the descent was effected. He found it the remains
of a watch-tower, of which this coast has hundreds, erected as a
protection against the invasions of the Barbary corsairs. The sight
of such objects brought the former condition of these seas vividly
to the mind. With one coast peopled by those who were at the head of
civilization, and the other by those that were just civilized enough to
be formidable, constant warfare, the habits of slavery, and the harem,
one can understand the uses of all these towers. Difficulties existing
between France and Algiers just at this moment, several of our French
acquaintances had tried to persuade us there was danger in even making
this little voyage; and when at Marseilles, lately, I witnessed the
departure of a brig, which was accompanied by the prayers of hundreds,
her sailing having been actually delayed some time on the same account!
The impression of the risks must have been strong, to prove so lasting.
As to the tower on the little island, it could only have been used
as a look-out to give notice of the approach of corsairs, and as a
protection to the coasters, for there were no people to take refuge in
it.
The north wind made at noon, and we embarked. We had a good run for
the rest of the day, at the distance of a league or two from a coast
lower than common, off which there were many islets and some banks of
sand visible. The channel lay near one of the latter, which might have
offered some danger, had we stood on the previous night. The padrone
pointed to it with exultation, asking me how I should have liked to be
laid on it in the dark. I pointed into the offing, and inquired, in
turn, if there were not water enough for the Bella Genovese between the
sands and Monte Christo, a small island that was dimly visible to the
westward, and which lies about half way between Corsica and the main.
My Genoese shrugged his shoulders as he muttered, “As if one would like
to be out there, in a little felucca, in a mistrail!” It was quite
obvious this fellow was no Columbus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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