Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
half the carriage-wheels that pass over them, is to be distrusted when
he constructs a garden-path across the Alps. This conduct reminds one of
those zealots who are for converting the heathen, and who neglect their
own neighbourhoods. In the one case, it is the love of excitement and a
morbid zeal; while in the other, however, it was a cool and selfish
calculation.
We had passed Faenza next day without stopping, having become wearied
with seeing towns of ten and twenty thousand souls. This place is known
for its pottery wares; whence the French word _faïence_. At Imola we
breakfasted. This was another of the Forums (that of Cornelius;) and the
town is said to lie on the verge of the plain of Lombardy, though in
truth this plain ought to commence at Rimini, if not at Ancona. Here the
poplars began to show themselves; though this tree is much more abundant
in France than in the country from which it has derived its American
name. Indeed, I am not sure one did not see more poplars in America
twenty years ago than are now seen here; though every body seems as
anxious to be rid of the tree to-day, as our fathers were to procure
them. It is said at home, that the dead naked tops which are so common
in the poplar, are owing to there not being a sufficient intermingling
of the sexes; but the same peculiarities are observed in Europe.—From
Imola we drove to Bologna, which we reached in good season.
The distance between Ancona and Bologna is one hundred and thirty-five
miles, which we had passed in four easy days’ work, with scarcely a
hillock on the whole road, with the exception of a little broken ground
between Sinigaglia and Pesaro. Most of the country was beautiful; and
the Apennines the whole time relieved the monotony of a plain. In its
way, it has proved to be one of the pleasantest journeys we have yet
made in all Europe.
LETTER XXIX.
Ferrara.—The Prison of Tasso.—The Flying Bridge over the Po.—Austrian
Custom-house: unnecessary trouble given there.—Venetian
women.—Padua.—The style of Palladio.—A Miracle.—Infidelity in
mask.—Road to Mestre, and Villas on the Brenta.—Distant view of
Venice.—The Lagoons.—Origin of Venice.—Aquatic Post-house.—Approach
to Venice.—Canals.—The Rialto.
Our stay at Bologna was short, for we were fearful of being too late in
the season for Venice. The first day’s work was to Ferrara, which place
we reached early, having left Bologna with the appearance of the sun.
The country was low, and had in places a _reedy_ look, bordering on the
low marshy lands that environ Ravenna. The whole of the eastern margin
of the plain of Lombardy is of this character, the descent from the base
of the mountains being constant, as is proved by the rivers, though so
gradual as to be imperceptible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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