Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
After a pull of an hour or more, the boat entered a broad canal that was
lined by palaces and noble houses. Passing through this, which proved to
be short, it came out in another passage, that seemed to be a main
artery of the town, smaller lateral canals communicating with it at
short distances. Across the latter we could see, among the dark ravines
of houses, numberless bridges trodden constantly by foot-passengers; but
across the larger channel, which was the grand canal, there was only
one. This was of stone, and it was covered with low buildings. Of
course, its length was much greater than that of the others; and its
single arch was high and pointed, though not strictly Gothic. As we
glided beneath it, vessels that might contend with the Adriatic appeared
beyond, the water gradually widening. The bridge was the Rialto; the
water, the continuation of the canal, and the commencement of the
Giudecca, which is, in fact, the port.
A gondola was lying on its oars as we approached the grand canal,
recognising a boat from Mestre; and as we came up to it, Mr. C——, of
Carolina, who had preceded us a day or two, jumped on board, having
taken lodgings in expectation of our arrival. Under his guidance we
stopped at some stone steps, and disembarked at the _Leone Bianco_.
LETTER XXX.
Arrival at Venice.—An hour’s walk by moonlight.—The streets of
Venice.—The Great Square of St. Mark.—The Piazzetta.—Palace of the
Doges.—The Campanile.—The Bridge of Sighs.—The Port—Travellers’ book
at the Leone Bianco.
It appeared as if we were in the centre of a civilization entirely
novel. On entering the inn, we found ourselves in a large paved hall,
but a step or two above the water, in the corner of which lay a gondola.
Ascending a flight of steps, we were received in a suite of good
apartments, and I ran to a window. Boats were gliding about in all
directions, but no noise was heard beyond the plash of the oar; not a
wheel nor a hoof rattling on a pavement. Even the fall of a rope in the
water might be heard at a considerable distance. Every thing was
strange; for, though a sailor and accustomed to aquatic scenes, I have
never before seen a city afloat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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