Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Passing by the side of the palace of the Doges, which fronts the sea, by
an arcade walk that lines its whole exterior, which is the celebrated
Broglio, where none but the noble once could walk, and where intrigues
were formerly so rife, we came to the bridge which spans the canal that
bounds the rears of the church and palaces. The covered gallery that is
thrown across this canal, connecting, at the height of a story or two
above the ground, the palace with the prisons on the other side, was the
Bridge of Sighs! By the side of the water-gate beneath were the
submarine dungeons, and I had only to look towards the roof to imagine
the position of the _Piombi_.
Then there was the port, lighted by a soft moon, and dotted with vessels
of quaint rigs, with the cool air fanning the face,—the distant
Lido,—and the dark hearse-like gondolas gliding in every direction.
Certainly, no other place ever struck my imagination so forcibly; and
never before did I experience so much pleasure, from novel objects, in
so short a time. A noble military band played in the square; but though
the music was, what German instrumental music commonly is, admirable, it
served rather to destroy the illusion of magic, and to bring me down to
a sense of ordinary things. After passing an hour in this manner, I
returned to the _Leone Bianco_, and excited every one’s curiosity to see
the same things. Poor W—— issued forth immediately; but, after an
unsuccessful search in the maze of lanes, he returned disappointed.
The traveller’s book was brought me to write my name in: and I find that
an American or two who had preceded me have been lampooned, as usual,
_in English_! One would think pride, in the absence of good taste, would
correct this practice.
LETTER XXXI.
Picture of the Assumption, by Titian.—Martyrdom of St. Peter.—Church
of St. Mark.—Attention to the countenance by the old
masters.—Canova’s Monument.—Palaces.—Arsenal and Museum.—Gondolas
and Gondoliers.—Lions’ Mouths.—Concourse in the Square of St.
Mark.—Attempt to revive Venice as a free port.—Composition
Floors.—Cause of frequent conflagration in America.—Mr. Owen’s
social scheme.—Company to erect edifices for lodging mechanics
suggested.
We have left the _Leone Bianco_ for lodgings near the Piazza San Marco,
where we control our own _ménage_, avoiding the expense and confusion of
an inn. I have set up my gondola, and we have been regularly at work
looking at sights for the last week. I shall continue, in my own way, to
speak only of those things that have struck me as peculiar, and which,
previously to my own visit here, I should myself have been glad to have
had explained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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