Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Some of the carvings of the churches, that are in _high relief_, surpass
any thing of the sort I have ever seen; and, in general, there is an
affluence of ornaments, and of works of merit, that renders these
edifices second to few besides those of Rome. A monument by Canova, that
was designed for Titian, but which has received a new destination by
being erected in honour of the sculptor himself, is an extraordinary
thing, and quite unique. Besides the main group, there are detached
figures, that stand several feet aloof; and the effect of this work,
which is beautifully chiselled out of spotless marble, beneath the
gloomy arches of a church, is singularly dramatic and startling. One is
afraid to commend the conceit, and yet it is impossible not to admire
the result. Still, I think, the admirable thought of Nahl renders his
humble Swiss tomb the sublimest thing in Europe.
What shall I tell you of the famous palaces? They are more laboured
externally, and have less simplicity and grandeur than I had expected to
see; but many of them are magnificent houses. All stand on a canal, very
many on the principal one; but they all extend far back towards the
streets, and can be entered as well by land as by water. There is a
large vestibule or hall below, into which one first enters on quitting
the gondola; and it is very usual to see one or more gondolas in it, as
one sees carriages in a court. The rooms above are often as rich as
those of royal residences, and many capital pictures are still found in
them. The floors are, almost invariably, of the composition which I have
already mentioned as resembling variegated marble. A much smaller
proportion of them than of those at Rome appear to be regularly occupied
by their owners.
You may suppose that I have had the curiosity to visit the renowned
Arsenal. It stands at one end of the town, and of course commands the
best water. The walls enclose a good deal of room, and ships of size can
enter within them. An Austrian corvette was on the stocks, but there was
no great activity in the building-yard. A frigate or two, however, are
here.
There is a museum of curious objects attached to the Arsenal, that is
well worth seeing. Among other things, we saw plans, and even some of
the ornaments of the Buccentauro, which is broken up, the sea being a
widow. One does not know which is the most to be pitied, _la Veuve de la
grande armée_, or the bereaved Adriatic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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