Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
We went a post on the mountain, a wild, without being absolutely a
savage district, before we turned the summit. This point was discovered
by the runs of water at the roadside, one of which was a tributary of
the Adige, sending its contributions to the Adriatic, while the other
flows into the Inn, which communicates with the Danube. The descent,
however, soon spoke for itself, and we went down a mountain on a scale
commensurate with that by which we had ascended.
At a turn in the road, a beautiful fairy-like scene suddenly presented
itself. There was a wide and fertile plain, through which meandered a
respectable river. Our own mountain melted away to its margin on one
side, and a noble wall of rock, some two or three thousand feet high,
bounded it on the other. Directly before us lay a town, with the usual
peculiarities of a mountain-city, though it had a cathedral, and even a
palace. This was Innspruck, the capital of the Tyrol, and the immediate
object of our journey. We drove into it at an early hour, and in time to
enjoy the play of mists, and the brilliancy of the snows that still
rendered the adjacent cliffs hoary.
We had glimpses of glaciers to-day, and saw an abbey or two in poetical
situations. Innspruck reminded us a good deal of Berne. The palace is
respectable, though not large, and the cathedral is quaint and
venerable. In the latter there is a row of knights in their ancient
armour, or, rather, a row of armour which is so placed as to resemble
knights ranged in order. I believe the armour is that of the former
sovereigns of the Tyrol.
There is also a little castle, a mile or two from the town, that now
belongs to the Emperor, and was once the hold, or palace, of the Counts
of the Tyrol. We had the curiosity to visit it. Certes, a small prince a
few centuries since lived in a very simple style. There were the
knights’ hall, a picture-gallery, and other sounding names; but a more
unsophisticated abode can hardly be imagined for a gentleman. To compare
any of these mountain-castles to a modern country-house, even in
America, is out of the question, for nothing can be plainer than most of
their accommodations. This was a little better than a common Yankee
palace, I allow, for that is the _ne plus ultra_ of discomfort and
pretension; but, after all, you might fancy yourself in a barn that had
been converted into a dwelling.
The gallery was awful—almost as bad as that one occasionally meets in an
American tavern, or that we actually enjoyed last night at Brixen.
Still, the place was quaint, and of great interest from its
associations. It even had its armour.
We are now at a stand. Vienna is on our right, Switzerland on our left,
and the last pass of the Alps is before us. Examining the map, I see the
“Iser rolling rapidly,” Munich, and a wide field of Germany in the
latter direction, and it has just been decided to push forward as far as
Saxony and Dresden before we make another serious halt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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