Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
I have little doubt that we now see, essentially, the form and
dimensions of the wall of Aurelian, if not the wall itself. Some
alterations, we know, have been made, for the gates are changed, and it
is probable, the wall, in places, has also undergone repairs; but it is
not much more difficult to believe that the walls which are now standing
are sixteen hundred years old, than to believe they are fourteen, or of
the time of Honorius.
I leave you to judge of the feelings with which I ride beneath these
walls. The Muro Torto in particular gives me great satisfaction, as one
can be reasonably certain that he sees the identical bricks in the
identical places they have occupied since the time of Domitian, or near
eighteen hundred years. You will be surprised to hear that these walls
are nearly all of bricks, as indeed are the aqueducts, temples, and most
of the other ruins of Rome. Augustus boasted that he found the city of
bricks and left it of marble; but time has left it of bricks again. This
contradiction is explained by the fact that the marbles which cased most
of the brickwork, in the baths, temples, palaces, and amphitheatres,
have been removed for other works, and also by the fact that the saying
of Augustus is not to be taken too literally.
You will be surprised, perhaps, at receiving these accounts so soon, and
to find me speaking already of the environs of Rome with so much
familiarity, on a month’s acquaintance. Soon after reaching the Eternal
City, I hired a saddle-horse, to accompany my old friend the —— of —— in
his morning rides; and besides having the advantage of a learned
cicerone, who has passed years in Rome, I have made the discovery, that
one in the saddle can see more of this place in a week, than is seen in
a month by those who use carriages, or who go on foot. You will better
understand this by getting a clearer idea of the actual condition of the
town and its environs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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