Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Morning ride round the City.—Egyptian Obelisk.—The Pincian
Hill.—Raphael.—Villa Borghese.—Muro Torto.—Invasions on this side
the town.—Pretorian Camp.—A Basilica.—The Campagna.—Fine breed of
Horses.—Temples of the god of Return, and of Bacchus.—Fountain of
Egeria.—Tomb of Cæcilia Metella.—The Circus ascribed to Caracella
erected by Maxentius.—Rome never materially larger than at
present.—Tomb of Caius Cestius.—Protestant Cemetery.—Monte
Testaceo.—The old system of Patron and Client.—Anecdote of
Ferdinando King of Naples.
In order to effect the purpose just mentioned, we will mount at the door
of our lodgings, in the Via Ripetta, and quit the town by the nearest
gate, which is that of “the people,” or the Porta del Popolo. The
obelisk in the centre of the area that we pass is Egyptian, as you may
see by the hieroglyphics. It formerly stood before the Temple of the
sun, at Heliopolis, and was transported to Rome by order of Augustus, as
an ornament to the Circus Maximus. It has now stood near three
centuries, or longer than America has been settled, where it is.
The carriage road that winds up the ascent on the right, by inclined
planes, leads to the Pincian Hill, the site of Domitian’s gardens, which
are now used as a promenade for all classes, on foot, on horseback, or
in carriages. I shall say nothing of the colossal statues, for they are
modern. The three streets that, separated by twin churches, diverge from
this square, penetrate the city, forming so many of its principal
arteries; that in the centre, which was the ancient Flaminian Way, leads
to the foot of the Capitol Hill, and is called the Corso.
When without the walls, we find a little suburb stretched along the road
which leads to the Ponte Molle, the ancient Milvian Bridge. This is the
road to Upper Italy, or Cis-Alpine Gaul, and follows, in the main, the
course of the Flaminian Way. We will quit the suburb, by turning short
under the walls.
The vineyard or garden on our left is that in which Raphael used to
amuse himself, and the plain stone dwelling is both ornamented and
defiled by the caprices of his pencil. He is any thing but divine in
that house. The grounds a little farther beyond, and which show
factitious ruins, statues, walks, avenues, and plantations, are the
celebrated Villa Borghese, which, by the liberality of the owner, are
converted into a Hyde Park, or a Bois de Boulogne, for Rome and her
visitors. It is said the public has used them so long, that it now
claims them as its own; the public in Rome being just as soulless,
ungrateful, and rapacious as the public in America. God help the man (if
honest) who depends on the public any where!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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