Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
An inscription puts the name of the person in whose honour this
extraordinary mausoleum was erected out of all doubt. It is the tomb of
Cæcilia Metella, the wife of a mere triumvir, a _millionnaire_ of his
day. This tomb is, therefore, the Demidoff of the Via Appia. It is
probably the noblest mausoleum now standing in Europe. There is no
uncertainty about its history; and yet, while one looks at it with
wonder as a specimen of Roman luxury and magnificence, it fails to
excite one half the interest that is felt when we linger around a spot
that is celebrated, by even questionable tradition, for any other sort
of greatness. As I gaze at it, my mind compares this specimen of art
with the civilisation of Rome, endeavours to form a general picture from
the particular object, and, certainly, it finds food for useful, as well
as for agreeable reflection; but it scarcely turns to the wife of the
triumvir at all: and when it does, it is rather to distrust her merits:
for pure virtue is seldom so obtrusive or pretending as may be inferred
from this tomb. Insignificance is ill advised in perpetuating itself in
this manner. The rest of those ruins are said to be a fortress of the
Popes, about five hundred years old; the tomb itself dating from the
close of the republic.
We might follow the Appian Way with great interest; but, as our ride has
already extended to nearly ten miles, it may be well to turn towards the
city. The ruins of a temple, and some extensive remains of a very
unusual and irregular character, attract our attention near the large
tomb. A part of these ruins are thought to belong to a villa erected at
the end of the third century; and it is probable that the remainder were
incorporated in its ornaments, as we include ruins in the landscape
gardening of our own time. There is clearly a temple which, it is
conjectured, also, answered the purpose of a mausoleum. Attached to this
temple, was a circus, the only one, I believe, that still preserves
enough of its ancient form to give us ocular proof of the real
construction of these celebrated places of amusement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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