Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Quitting this, and descending into the valley again, if valley it may be
called, we find a sort of grotto, in the hill side, with a recumbent
statue, a spring of pure water, the source of the rivulet, and the
appearance of former decorations that are now wanting, particularly of
statues. This place is popularly called the fountain of the nymph
Egeria, so celebrated for the artifice of Numa. It is, however, pretty
certain that this is not the true spot; and, considering the proximity
of the temple of Bacchus, the grotto is probably the remains of some
Roman expedient to cool wine, and to drink it luxuriously. Religion may
have been mixed up of old with these debauches, as we know politics and
dinners go together in our own times. The recumbent statue is clearly no
statue of a nymph. The work is thought by even the sceptics to be as old
as the time of Vespasian. This grotto and the temple of Bacchus,
probably, had some allegorical connexion, the one being a place to
carouse in, the other a temple to sanctify the rites; and if we add the
other fane to the whole, as an emblem of the manner in which drunkards
render themselves _ridiculous_, we may be quite as near the truth as the
antiquaries.
We will quit these pleasant dales, and ride across the fields, a short
mile, to the line of ruined tombs that marks the remains of the Appian
Way. An extensive pile of ruins will naturally first attract our
attention; and we will spur our horses up the sharp acclivity on which
it stands, though by making a small _détour_, and getting into the rough
road, that still leads out on the old route for a few miles, we might
reach the summit more easily. On reaching this spot, we find the remains
of a castle of the middle ages, with courts, walls, and towers,
scattered about the fields, all built in the usual rude and inartificial
manner of those structures, with a keep, however, that has the grace and
finish of the Roman architecture. This keep is round, well preserved,
much better, in short, than the rest of the edifice, which is crumbling
around it. It is about eighty feet in diameter, and is constructed of
vast hewn blocks of travertine; while the other parts of the work appear
to be made of stones gathered in the fields, or taken from the
foundations of the tombs. The latter was most probably the fact. The
walls of this keep are thirty feet thick, the interior being little more
than a small vaulted room. It formerly contained the sarcophagus that is
still seen in the court of the Farnese Palace; for, in brief, this keep
was merely one of the tombs of the Appian Way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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