Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
An intelligent Swiss who is now here, and who frequently accompanies me
in these morning rides, exclaimed triumphantly the other day, “You will
find, on examining Rome in detail, that all the works of luxury and of a
ferocious barbarity belonged to the Empire, and those of use to the
Republic. The latter, moreover, are the only works that seem to be
imperishablé.” After allowing for the zeal of a republican, there is
some truth in this; though the works of the republic, by their nature,
being drains and aqueducts, &c., are more durable than those above
ground. Still it is a good deal to have left an impression of lasting
usefulness, to be contrasted with the memorials and barbarity of vain
temples and bloody arenas.
Of the Coliseum it is unnecessary to speak, beyond the effect it will
produce on us both. For me, unlike the effect of St. Peter’s, some time
was necessary to become fully conscious of its vastness. When one comes
deliberately to contemplate this edifice, its beauty of detail and of
material, the perfect preservation of its northern half, in the exterior
at least, it must be a dull imagination indeed that does not proceed to
people its arches and passages, and to form some pictures of the scenes
that, for near five hundred years, were enacted within its walls. This
noble structure, noble in extent in architecture, if not in its uses,
was occupied in the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth centuries as a
strong place, by the contending factions of Rome. This period, however,
longer than that of the existence of our American community, is but a
speck in the history of the building, as a short retrospect will show.
Vespasian died in 79, Titus in 81, and Domitian in 96. The first
commenced, the last is said to have finished, this edifice. For three
hundred years it was used for the exhibitions of the gladiators, and,
down to the year 523, for battles of wild beasts. For five hundred years
more there is little account of it; but it was probably too vast for the
purposes of the people who then dwelt among the ruins of Rome. Then came
the civil contentions, and near three centuries of military occupation.
In 1381, it is said to have been much dilapidated, particularly on the
southern side, when it was converted into a hospital. After this, the
popes and their favourites began to pull it to pieces, for the stone.
Several of the largest palaces of modern Rome have certainly been
erected out of its materials; that of the Farnese, in particular. The
quay of the Ripetta, or the port, is also enriched from this classical
quarry. It is only within a few years—less than thirty, I believe—that
any serious attempts have been made to preserve what is left; and, to
the credit of the papal government be it said, these attempts are likely
to be successful. The walls require little but the “let us alone”
policy, for they seem to defy time and the seasons. As there was a
possibility of their crumbling, however, at the broken extremities of
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