Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The first palace of Nero must have occupied the whole of the Palatine
Hill, with perhaps the exception of a temple or two, the ground around
the Coliseum (the site of which was a pond), and all the land as far as
the Esquiline, or even to the verge of the Quirinal,—a distance
exceeding a mile. This was possessing, moreover, the heart of the town;
although a portion of the space was occupied by gardens and other
embellishments. When this building was burned, he returned to the
Palatine, repaired the residence of Augustus, and rebuilt with so much
magnificence, that the new palace was called the “Golden House.” This
building also extended to the Esquiline; though it was never finished.
Vespasian and Titus, more moderate than the descendent of the Cæsars,
demolished all the new parts of the palace, and caused the Coliseum and
the baths that bear the name of the latter to be constructed on the
spot. These emperors were elected, and they found it necessary to
consult the public tastes and public good. Thus we find the remains of
two of the largest structures of the world now standing within the
ground once occupied by the palace of the Cæsars, on which they appear
as little more than points. From this time the emperors confined
themselves to the Palatine, the glory of which gradually departed. It is
said that the palace, as it was subsequently reduced, remained standing,
in a great measure, as recently as the eighth century, and that it was
even inhabited in the seventh.
The ruins of the Palatine are now little more than the vaulted rooms of
the foundation. One or two halls of the principal floor are thought to
be still partially in existence; but as nearly every thing but the
bricks has disappeared, they offer little more than recollections to a
visitor. Even their uses are conjectured rather than proved. It is
possible, by industry and research, to get some ideas of the localities;
but few things at Rome, compared with its original importance, offer
less of interest directly to the senses than the Palatine Hill. The
ruins are confused, and the study of them is greatly perplexing.
Certainly, one is also oppressed with sensations on visiting this spot;
but, unless a true antiquary, I think the eye is more apt to turn
towards the Coliseum, and the other surrounding objects, than to the
shapeless and confused masses of brickwork that are found here.
The site of the house of Augustus is now a villa, belonging to an
Englishman, which is well kept up, and which may have its uses in a
certain sense, but which struck me as being singularly ill-placed as
respects sentiment. One could wish every trace of a modern existence to
be obliterated from such a spot; and, moreover, a man ought to have
great confidence in the texture of his own skin to stand constantly
beneath the glare of a powerful sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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