Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Rome, just at this moment, contains a congress of all the people of
Christendom. Its most obvious society, perhaps, is the English; but it
is by no means the best, as it is necessarily much mixed. I was lately
at a great ball given by the Prince of ——, and it certainly was
faultless as to taste and style. I do not remember ever to have been in
a society so uniformly elegant and high-toned. The exceptions were very
few, and not very obtrusive. The apartments were vast and magnificent,
and the supper equal to the rest. But the Italians of condition may be
generally considered a polished and amiable people, whatever is thought
of their energy and learning. In the latter there is no very apparent
deficiency; though they attend less to this point, perhaps, than some
other countries of Europe. In the studious classes, it strikes me, there
is much learning; not a knowledge of Greek and Latin quantities merely,
but a knowledge of the sciences and of the arts, and a strong sympathy
with the beauties of the classics.
In the lower classes I have been agreeably disappointed. Strangers
certainly see the worst of them; for a kinder and quicker witted, and a
more civil people, than most of the country population, is not usually
seen. Had we formed our notions by even the first nine months
observation, it would have misled us, for subsequent experience has made
us acquainted with several dependents of the most excellent character
and disposition.
Few foreigners, however, see much of Italian society; the great inroad
of strangers causing them to be cautious of opening their doors, while
the number of the strangers themselves is apt to make them satisfied
with their own associations. It is said that there are some thousands of
travellers in Rome at this moment; and you can judge of their effect on
the modes of living of so small a town. The English, as a matter of
course, predominate, at least in the public places and in the hotels. At
the ball I attended, however, there were but three English present,
though half the other nations of Christendom were fully represented.
This fact was observed, and I ventured to inquire of a Roman the reason.
The answer was, that the master of the house did not like the English;
and although the entertainment was given to a prince of a royal family
nearly connected with the royal family of England, but three of the
latter country were invited. I was told that the disposition to force
their own opinions and habits on the strangers they visited rendered the
English unpleasant, and that there was a general feeling against
receiving them. This may be just enough as respects a portion, perhaps
the majority of those who come here; but it is singularly unjust as
respects the better class of them, and it is the Romans who are the
losers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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