Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Strangers are no longer expected to kneel at the appearance of the Host
in the streets, or even in the churches. The people understand the
prejudices of Protestants, and, unless offensively obtruded, seem
disposed to let them enjoy them in peace. I saw a strong proof of this
lately;—A friend of mine, walking with myself, stepped aside in a narrow
street, for a purpose that often induces men to get into corners. He
thought himself quite retired; but, as I stopped for him to rejoin me, a
crowd collected around the spot he had just quitted. Without his knowing
it, the image of a Madonna was placed in the wall, directly above the
spot he had chosen, and of course it had been defiled! I saw all this
myself; and it is a proof of the change that exists in this particular,
that I dared to remain to watch the result, though my friend himself
thought it prudent to retire. A priest appeared, and the wall was
sprinkled with holy water, while the people stood looking on, some at
the wall and some at me, in grave silence. Thirty years ago such a
blunder might have cost us both our lives.
Indeed, liberality, in some respects, is carried to a fault. The singing
of St. Peter’s has a reputation far and near, and strangers are
accustomed to go there to hear it. There is a particular chapel in which
a service is sung, (vespers, I presume,) every Sunday afternoon, and
where one can hear the finest vocal church music in the world, music
even finer than that of the Royal Chapel at Dresden. At the latter
place, however, the music is chiefly instrumental; whereas here it is
principally by voices. One who has never seen such a temple, or heard
such a combination of science, skill, and natural, I may say
_artificial_ power, can form no just notion of the sensations that arise
on walking among the wonders of the church and listening to the heavenly
chants. Sometimes I withdraw to a distance, and the sounds reach me like
the swells of airs in another world: and at times I go near the door of
the chapel, and receive the full bursts of its harmony. Operas,
concerts, and _conservatoirs_ sink into insignificance before this
sublime union of the temple and its worship; for both may be considered
as having reached the limits of human powers, so far as the senses are
concerned.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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