Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Every one was off with the dawn, the carriages streaming out of the gate
of Cività Castellana in a line like that of the baggage of a regiment.
We took the lead, and soon had the road to ourselves. A bridge carried
us over the Tiber, and we began to ascend the Apennines. We breakfasted
on their side at a hamlet, and, leaving the horses to bait, I walked
ahead. It was a solitary wild mountain road, though perfectly good; and
I soon fell in company with a party of pilgrims on their return from
Rome. These men carried the staves and scrips, and wore a species of
light cloak, with the capes covered with scallops. They were
conversable, and any thing but solemn or way-worn. They had been
employed in some of the recent ceremonies of the Church.
When the carriages came up, we had a wild picturesque country,
especially about Narni, where were also some Roman remains. Here we
descended into a beautiful valley; and in the bottom are the remains of
a fine bridge of the time of Augustus. Passing through vineyards,
olive-trees and fruit-trees, we reached the little city of Terni, a
place of six or seven thousand souls, and which is prettily placed on
the river Nera, in the centre of a very fertile region. This is the
country of Tacitus.
Although still early, we drove to an inn, and secured good lodgings;
after which we proceeded to the falls. The latter lie more than a league
from the town, as we found to our cost, for we made the mistake of
undertaking to walk to them. We luckily got a few asses on the road;
though W—— and myself walked the entire distance there and back.
These celebrated falls are artificial, having been made by the Romans
some centuries before Christ, by turning the course of a pretty little
stream. They are reputed the finest waterfalls in Europe; a quarter of
the world that, while it has many cascades, has few fine cataracts.
These of Terni are between the two, being insignificant for the last,
and large for the first. Those of our party who have seen the Falls of
Trenton think them much finer than these of Terni; but I have never seen
the first myself. There is a “method in the madness” of these falls
that, I think, slightly impairs their beauty, though very beautiful they
are. The thing at Tivoli will not compare with them; but I am told the
falls of Tivoli have been much injured by some public works. This, you
know, is the case with the Cohoos.
Between Terni and Spoleto, next day, we had another reach of mountains,
and of mountain scenery. There are Roman remains at the latter place,
which is prettily placed on a rocky and irregular hill that is thought
to be an extinct crater. An aqueduct, that is called Roman, has arches
of the Gothic school, and is probably a work of the middle ages. There
is also a high bridge across a valley, that communicates with a
hermitage; a proof of what religious feeling can effect even when ill
directed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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