THE season for transplanting roses "is from the end of October to the middle of March. The autumn is generally preferred; although, I think, it matters but little, provided they are not removed during frosty weather. If standards are chosen, each plant should be tied to a stake to preserve it from the action of the wind; and, whether standards or dwarfs, it is an excellent plan to cover the soil with old hotbed manure, describing a circle round the plant about eighteen inches in diameter. This done, pruning is the next operation, and this should be performed in February or March. As the roots of the plants will have been curtailed by the act of removal, more pruning is necessary the first year than at any subsequent period. It is scarcely possible to acquire a correct knowledge of pruning otherwise than by watching a proficient in the art. Nevertheless, a few hints may prove serviceable. A young plant should have from three to seven shoots; if more are present, those best situated for the formation of a well-balanced plant should be singled out, and the others cut away. This is called thinning. It is now necessary to shorten the shoots that are left. It is an axiom in rose-pruning--the more rigorous the growth, the less should the shoots be shortened. The kinds of weak growth may be shortened to two, or at most three eyes (buds), the moderate growers ranging from three to five eyes, and the strong growers from five to seven. In the early growth of spring, it is necessary to look through the plants occasionally, to remove the caterpillars which infest them at that season, and which travel from bud to bud, eating out the core, and destroying the future flowers. The autumnal blooming kinds require higher cultivation than the summer ones. The latter flower in summer only; the former give a succession of flowers during the autumn months. By strict attention to these directions, a beautiful collection of roses may be formed." PARLOR WORK. Collars and undersleeves being so expensive once more, many ladies prefer to embroider for themselves, as the style is by no means difficult. The pattern, principally of eyelets, and with deep points of button-hole stitch (such as we have given, from time to time, in the "Lady's Book" Work-Table), is traced on the muslin or cambric. Instead of the old-fashioned hoops, or tambour-frames, a piece of dark morocco or kid is basted beneath, to keep the strip quite straight and even, then worked over the finger. The same is used for scalloping or pointing skirts, or, in fact, for any style of cambric or muslin embroidery.