Godey's Lady's Book, Vol. 48, No. XVIII, April, 1854Various
General
Godey's Lady's Book, Vol. 48, No. XVIII, April, 1854
Various
Fashion -- 19th century -- Periodicals; United States -- Social life and customs -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Women's periodicals, American
The woven embroidery now so much the style, where bouquets, wreaths, etc.,
are brocaded on a plain ground, is brought into service the present
season. The Oriental scarf we notice, as combining richness of material
and effect, with plainness of form and decoration. It has a deep border
of palm leaves in bright shades, gold predominating, on a plain ground of
royal purple; the heavy fringe is of the same hue. The form is the simple
close-fitting mantilla scarf.
Another style, destined to become a favorite from its richness of effect,
is composed of several flounces of black guipure lace on a plain silk,
deep blue, green, violet, brown, etc. The lower one, much deeper than
those on the body of the mantle, falls over the dress, and that next to
the row which forms the upper finish follows the curve of the shoulder.
There is a space between each the width of the lace, and the several rows
are headed by a box-plaited _ruche_ of narrow black satin ribbon. Another
style has bands of velvet ribbon an inch and a half in width, placed
lengthwise on the scarf, the ends falling over the flounce of lace below.
They are at a little distance apart, and each is encircled or edged by
a narrow row of lace placed on flat, giving an effect at once elegant
and novel, which it would be impossible to describe by words. These
are a few of the leading spring styles; and others less costly, and in
lighter fabrics, will be described in our extended notice of Mr. Brodie's
establishment.
For those who do not order their mantillas and scarfs from the city
direct, or who depend upon home manufacture, we would advise them to send
to Demorest, 67 Canal Street, a few doors from Brodie's, for a set of
patterns, and make them up according to the very accurate idea given by
his styles. Here, again, we have several new varieties, the establishment
also importing direct from Paris. One of very graceful shape has plaits at
the back, as in the cloaks of the past season, with a tablier, or scarf
front passing around and forming a deep collar on the shoulder. All the
mantillas of the season, be it remarked, are very low and open, to display
the collar, chemisette, etc. Another, of plainer scarf form, has a collar
pointed in front, and a shoulder-piece coming below it has the effect of a
double collar, ending in a bow of ribbon upon the shoulder. Still another,
especially suited for a matron, has a slight fulness in the back, which is
cut in the same piece as the front, coming into a very low pointed yoke
on the shoulder; the collar corresponds in form and style. All Madame
Demorest's patterns are made in tissue paper, fitting to the figure with
the same grace as the real garment, and the trimmings are imitated with
wonderful exactness.
For several new sleeves, we are also indebted to the same establishment,
although the season is too early to admit of a judgment as to what will be
the prevailing styles.
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