Godey's Lady's Book, Vol. 48, No. XVIII, April, 1854Various
General
Godey's Lady's Book, Vol. 48, No. XVIII, April, 1854
Various
Fashion -- 19th century -- Periodicals; United States -- Social life and customs -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Women's periodicals, American
The question of economy also extends to colors, some of which are much
more durable than others. For this we can give no rule, except that drabs
and other "quaker colors," as they are frequently called, are amongst the
most permanent of all colors. For other colors, we must take the word of
the draper. There is no doubt, however, that the most durable colors are
the cheapest in the end. In the selection of colors, the expense is not
always a criterion; something must be paid for fashion and novelty, and
perhaps for the cost of the dye. The newest and most expensive colors are
not always those which last the longest.
It is not economical to have the dresses made in the extremity of the
fashion, because such soon become remarkable; but the fashions should be
followed at such a distance that the wearer may not attract the epithet of
old-fashioned.
We conclude this part of our subject with a few suggestions relative to
the selection of different styles and materials of dress.
The style of dress should be adapted to the age of the wearer. As a
general rule, we should say that in youth the dress should be simple and
elegant, the ornaments being flowers. In middle age, the dress may be
of rich materials, and more splendid in its character; jewels are the
appropriate ornaments. In the decline of life, the materials of which the
dress is composed may be equally rich, but with less vivacious colors; the
tertiaries and broken colors are particularly suitable, and the character
of the whole costume should be quiet, simple, and dignified. The French,
whose taste in dress is so far in advance of our own, say that ladies who
are fifty years old should neither wear gay colors nor dresses of slight
materials, flowers, feathers, or much jewelry; that they should cover
their hair, wear high dresses, and long sleeves.
Tall ladies may wear flounces and tucks, but they are less appropriate for
short persons. As a general rule, vertical stripes make persons appear
taller than they really are, but horizontal stripes have a contrary
effect. The latter are not admissible in garment fabrics, "since, crossing
the person, the pattern quarrels with all the motions of the human figure,
as well as with the form of the long folds in the skirts of the garment.
For this reason, large and pronounced checks, however fashionable, are
often in bad taste, and interfere with the graceful arrangement of
drapery." Is it to show their entire contempt for the principles of design
that our manufacturers introduced last year not only horizontal stripes
of conspicuous colors, but checks and plaids of immense size, as autumnal
fashions for dress fabrics? We had hoped that the ladies would show the
correctness of their taste by their disapproval of these unbecoming
designs, but the prevalence of the fashion at the present time is another
evidence of the triumph of fashion over good taste.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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