Good-bye to all that : $b An autobiographyGraves, Robert
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Good-bye to all that : $b An autobiography
Graves, Robert
Authors, English -- 20th century -- Biography; Graves, Robert, 1895-1985; World War, 1914-1918 -- Personal narratives, British
Belaying means making fast on a projection of rock a loop of the rope
which is wound round one’s waist, and so disposing the weight of the
body that, if the climber above or below happens to slip and fall, the
belay will hold and the whole party will not go down together. Alpine
rope has a breaking point of a third its own length. Only one member of
the climbing team is moving at any given time, the others are belayed.
Sometimes on a precipice it is necessary to move up fifty or sixty
feet before finding a secure belay as a point from which to start the
next upward movement, so that if the leader falls and is unable to put
on a brake in any way he must fall more than twice that length before
being pulled up. On the same day I was taken on a spectacular though
not unusually difficult climb on Crib Goch. At one point we traversed
round a knife-edge buttress. From this knife-edge a pillar-like bit of
rock, technically known as a monolith, had split away. We scrambled up
the monolith, which overhung the valley with a clear five hundred feet
drop, and each in turn stood on the top and balanced. The next thing
was to make a long, careful stride from the top of the monolith to the
rock face; here there was a ledge just wide enough to take the toe of
a boot, and a handhold at convenient height to give an easy pull-up to
the next ledge. I remember George shouting down from above: ‘Be careful
of that foothold, Robert. Don’t chip the edge off or the climb will
be impossible for anyone who wants to do it again. It’s got to last
another five hundred years at least.’
I was only in danger once. I was climbing with Porter on an
out-of-the-way part of the mountain. The climb, known as the Ribbon
Track and Girdle Traverse, had not been attempted for about ten years.
About half-way up we came to a chimney. A chimney is a vertical fissure
in the rock wide enough to admit the body; a crack is only wide enough
to admit the boot. One works up a chimney sideways with back and knees,
but up a crack with one’s face to the rock. Porter was leading and
fifty feet above me in the chimney. In making a spring to a handhold
slightly out of reach he dislodged a pile of stones that had been
wedged in the chimney. They rattled down and one rather bigger than a
cricket ball struck me on the head and knocked me out. Fortunately I
was well belayed and Porter was already in safety. The rope held me up;
I recovered my senses a few seconds later and was able to continue.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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