Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 2, August 1852Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 2, August 1852
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
Another volume of “Appleton’s Popular Library”—books intended to
“quicken the intelligence of youth, delight age, decorate prosperity,
shelter and solace us in adversity, bring enjoyment at home, befriend us
out of doors, pass the night with us, travel with us, go into the
country with us.” The present volume contains some happily selected
papers from the London Quarterly Review, on “The Printer’s Devil,”
“Gastronomy and Gastronomers,” “The Honey Bee,” “Music,” and “The Art of
Dress;” papers which are gracefully written, and abounding in
interesting anecdote. Our favorite is the article on “Gastronomy and
Gastronomers,” in which the art of cooking is raised to its true dignity
as one of the Fine Arts, and its great exemplars are generally judged
according to the principles of the profoundest philosophical criticism.
The great cooks have found in the author of this article one born to be
their critic—the Schlegel of gastronomy. From the New Zealand cannibal,
with his “cold clergyman on the sideboard,” to the exquisite Brummel,
who “once eat a pea,” our author ranges at will, the interpretator of
palates. And in truth the subject is worthy of such an analyst. It is
generally conceded that the highest action of the mind, in the gladdest
rush of its creative energy, is combination. From combination proceeds
the picturesque, represented in literature by Shakspeare in England, and
Calderon in Spain. The essence of the picturesque is the “union,
harmonious melting down and fusion of the diverse in kind and disparate
in degree;” and we suppose that in this quality of mind the great cook
is preëminent. He creates, by combination, new dishes out of old
materials; is the author of edible Hamlets and deliciously flavored
Romeos; and appeals, not to gluttons and fat-witted beer guzzlers, but
to the fine senses of the educated gastronomer.
It is impossible for an American, to whom a dinner is a mere filling up
of an empty stomach, to realize the art and science of eating as
practiced and taught in France. Our author tells us that no less a
dignitary than M. Henrion de Pensey, late President of the Court of
Cassation—a magistrate, says, or said, M. Royer Collard, “of whom
regenerated France has reason to be proud”—expressed to MM. Laplace,
Chaptol and Berthollet his views of the comparative importance of the
astronomical and gastronomical sciences, in these memorable words: “I
regard the discovery of a dish as a far more interesting event than the
discovery of a star, _for we have always stars enough, but we can never_
_have too many dishes_; and I shall not regard the sciences as
sufficiently honored or adequately represented amongst us, until I see a
cook in the first class of the Institute.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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