Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 2, August 1852Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 2, August 1852
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
We have all heard that poets are born, not made; but M. Brillat-Savarin
makes the same assertion respecting gourmands. The art of eating, it
seems, cannot be acquired. Those who have an original aptitude to enjoy
the luxuries of the table, are described as having “broad faces,
sparkling eyes, small foreheads, short noses, full lips, and round
chins. The females are plump, rather pretty than handsome, with a
tendency to embonpoint. It is under this exterior that the pleasantest
guests are to be found; they accept all that is offered, _eat slowly_,
and _taste with reflection_. They never hurry away from the places where
they have been well treated; and you are sure of them for the evening,
because they know all the games and pastimes which form the ordinary
accessories of a gastronomic meeting. Those, on the contrary, to whom
nature has refused an aptitude for the enjoyments of taste, have long
faces, long noses, and large eyes; whatever their height, they have
always in their tournure a character of elongation. They have black and
straight hair, and are above all deficient in _embonpoint; it is they_
_who invented trowsers_. The women whom nature has affected with the
same misfortune are angular, get tired at table, and live on tea and
scandal.”
In the same strain he speaks of _eprouvettes_, “dishes of acknowledged
flavor, of such undoubted excellence, that their bare appearance ought
to excite in a human being, properly organized, all the faculties of
taste; so that all those in whom, in such cases, we perceive neither the
flush of desire nor the radiance of ecstasy, may be justly noted as
unworthy of the honors of the sitting and the pleasures attached to it.”
As an awful warning to the eaters of America, it should be mentioned
that Napoleon owed his ruin to his habits of rapid eating. At Borodino
and at Leipsic he was prevented from pushing his successes to a
victorious conclusion, solely from the indecision and weakness of mind
proceeding from a disordered stomach. On the third day at Dresden—we
have it on the authority of the poet Hoffman—he again evinced a lack of
his usual energy, owing to his having eat part of a shoulder of mutton
stuffed with onions—“a dish,” says the writer in the Quarterly, “only
to be paralleled by the pork chops which Messrs. Thurtell and Co.
regaled on, after completing the murder of their friend Mr. Weare.” One
instance of Napoleon’s good taste, and the only one, we have reluctantly
been compelled to give up as a fiction. Tom Moore, in “The Fudge Family
in Paris,” mentions Chambertin Burgundy, the most delicious wine in the
world, as the “pet tipple of Nap;” but the Quarterly asserts that it was
never taken on serious occasions, for after the battle of Waterloo there
were found in his carriage two bottles—empty—one of which was marked
_Malaga_, the other _Rum_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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