Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
In a light, upper room, women and girls are at work, sitting on low
stools, each with a shawl stretched tightly over her knees. Some of
these are darning, with the utmost nicety, any cracks, thin places, or
“faults” in the fabric; darning each in its exact color. Some are
putting silk fringes upon the printed shawls, tacking them in with a
needle, measuring each length by eye and touch, and then knotting, or,
as it is called, “netting” the lengths by cross-ties. One diminutive
girl of nearly ten, is doing this with wonderful quickness, as she sits
by her mother’s knee. The girls do not come to work before this age; nor
the boys before twelve. In other rooms, women are seated at tables, or
leaning over them, twisting the fringes of plaid shawls, or picking out
knots and blemishes with pincers, and brushing all clean, and then
folding them, with sheets of stiff pasteboard between, ready for the
final pressure in the hydraulic press, which makes them fit for the
shop.
The fabric for the printed shawls is light and thin, in comparison with
the woven. The thinness is various; from the barège to the lightest
gossamer that will bear the pressure of the block. The whole importance
of the production consists in printing; for the fabric is simple and
common enough. A man can weave ten yards per day of the barège; and the
silk gauze, striped or plain, requires no particular remark.
The designing is done with the same pains and care as for the genuine
shawl, but the range of subjects is larger. While something of the
Oriental character of the shawl patterns must be preserved, much of the
beauty of French figured silks and brocades and embroidery may be
admitted. Thus the designing and coloring-rooms contain much that
pleases the eye, though one does not see there the means and appliances
which fill some apartment or another of Birmingham factories--the casts
from the antique, the volumes of plates, the flower in water, and so on.
The preparation of the blocks for printing, and yet more the application
of them, reminded us of the paper-staining, which we had certainly never
thought of before in connection with shawls. The wood used is lime-wood.
Some of the blocks are chiseled and picked out, like those of the
paper-stainer. The cast-blocks are more curious. A punch is used, the
point or needle of which is kept hot by a flame, from which the
workman’s head is defended by a shield of metal. He burns holes by
puncturing with this hot needle along all the outlines of the block he
holds in his hands, much as a little child pricks outlines on paper on a
horse-hair chair-bottom. There is a groove along the face of each block,
to allow the metal to run in. The burned blocks are screwed tight in a
press, their joined tops forming a saucer, into which the molten metal
(composed of tin, bismuth and lead) is poured. In it goes, and down the
grooves, penetrating into all the burnt holes; and, of course, when
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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