Graham's Magazine, Vol. XXXIV, No. 1, January 1849Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XXXIV, No. 1, January 1849
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
Like great epidemics, the passion for dress often leaps over territorial
boundaries, and ships not unfrequently carry with the cholera and
_vomito_ bales of articles destined to spread this infection among lands
as yet ignorant of it; so that some day we may live to hear of Oakford
sending a case of hats to the Feejees, and of Watson making an uniform
for the general-in-chief of the King of the Cannibal Islands.
Possibly this passion for our costumes is to be attributed to the
deterioration of the morals of the savages, and if so, even dress has
its historical importance and significance, and is the true reflection
of _morale_. It may be that the days of the iron garb were days of iron
manners, and also of iron virtue, and that in adopting a silken costume
we have put on, and they may be about to adopt a silken laxity of virtue
and honor.
We will begin to treat of costume as it was in the days of Louis XIV.,
the solemn mood and ideas of whom exerted their influence even on dress,
and the era which saw all other arts become pompous and labored, also
saw costume assume the most complicated character. Costume naturally
during this reign was permanent in its character, and when Louis XV.
succeeded to the throne he found his courtiers dressed entirely as their
fathers had done, and the young king, five years of age, dressed
precisely like his great-grandfather, with peruke, cane and breeches.
When he had reached the years of discretion, Louis XV. continued to
devote himself more to the trifles of the court than to affairs of
state.
The following engraving is an illustration taken from a portrait of a
celebrated marquis of that day.
[Illustration]
This, it will be remembered, was the era when women wore whalebone
frame-works to their dresses and caps, or a kind of defensive armor over
the chest and body. The fine gentlemen also encased themselves in wires,
to distend the hips of their _culottes_ or breeches. This was the
costume of the fine gentlemen, and in it kings and heroes appeared on
the stage almost without interruption until the days of Talma, if we
except the brief and unsuccessful attempt at reform, as far as theatres
were concerned, by Le Kain and Mademoiselle Clairon.
The foregoing was the prevailing court costume, the next is the military
garb of the day, recalling the costume of Charles XII. of Sweden, and
not unlike that of our own Putnam or Mad Anthony Wayne. Thus the lowland
gentlemen who fought in ’45, dressed after this mode, were the opposing
parties of the armies at Ramilies. As a whole it is not _malapropos_,
and altogether more suitable and proper than the uniforms of our own
day. The following is the portrait of a mousquetaire just one century
after the time of Athos, Porthos, Aramis and D’Artignan, whom Dumas made
illustrious.
[Illustration]
* * * * *
MAPLE SUGAR.
BY ALFRED B. STREET.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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