Graham's Magazine, Vol. XXXIV, No. 3, March 1849Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XXXIV, No. 3, March 1849
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
The old Duke of Lauraguais said that the first English frock worn in
France had been the death-blow of the French nobility, one of the most
numerous of the grades of which had been the first to adopt it. The
Marquises, with their proverbial love of change, began from that time to
transform their _modes_, and effected it so rapidly that their brocade
garments were soon only found on the stage, or in the _bals-costumés_.
This frock, (fr. froc,) which had so disadvantageous an influence, was a
kind of loose gown, with pockets on the inside, and without any
tightness at the waist. It was cut lengthwise with the cloth, and though
first without a collar, ultimately acquired one. The dress of the age in
other respects remained long unaltered, though its accessories, such as
buttons, plaits, _etc._, were constantly changing. The coats first were
made to button all the way up, and then only from the pockets up:
finally buttons were not used at all. After some lapse of time loops
were used, which clasped the narrow coat over the often portly
_tournure_ in the most ridiculous manner. Waistcoats then were
waistcoats, not _gilets_, but substantial coats without sleeves. The
wardrobe of a gentleman also contained another garment called a
_veston_, covered with lace and _broderie_, a _volant_, which was always
single-breasted, various kinds of redingotes, such as the _roquelaure_,
the _houppelande_, etc., all of which were made of every conceivable
material and color. The above are the general characteristics of
costume, all the variations of which we cannot be expected to describe
any more than the botanist is to count every leaf on a tree.
Black, now the _ne plus ultra_ of dress, was then worn only by
_procureurs_, authors, small landholders, and, in a word, all persons
who were negligent in their toilette. It was the index of restricted
means, and of mourning, when the most obscure bourgeois dressed himself
like a count or marquis.
The greatest variety of colors were worn, and contrasts which now would
seem most repulsive were every day met with. A scarlet velvet coat, with
a black collar and steel buttons, sulphur-colored breeches and
blue-striped hose were considered in very good taste about 1785. _Boue
de Paris_ (brick-dust color) and London smoke were worn in both London
and Paris in 1786, and in 1788, a color known by the repulsive name of
beef' s-blood was the extremity of fashion. Waistcoats had all kinds of
names, taken from operas, such as Figaro, Cœur-de-Lion, etc.
Handkerchiefs _aux adieux de Fontainebleu_ were worn; neither of these,
however, seem to have differed materially from other waistcoats and
handkerchiefs.
This was the age of _cravats_, made of fine lawn or baptiste richly
laced, with hanging ends; peruques _à la Grecque_, with three buckles;
the sword and plumed hat. Some persons also wore the stockinet breeches,
by the side of which Adam’s fig-leaf was decent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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