Graham's Magazine, Vol. XXXIV, No. 3, March 1849Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XXXIV, No. 3, March 1849
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
Among the causes which tended in the eighteenth century to modify French
costume, by assimilating all classes, we must in the first place mention
the influence of what is now called Anglo-mania. Even as far back as
Louis XV., the young nobles had become accustomed to visit England,
where they acquired new habits if not new ideas. England for a time was
the sovereign of fashion, and hats were worn _à la Tamise_ instead of _à
la Seine_. The nobles, in imitation of the English, ruined themselves by
extravagance in horses and equipages. Quarrels arose about the good
looks of jockeys, and princes of the blood and dukes transformed
themselves into coach-drivers. Marie Antoinette even took pride in the
dexterity with which she handled the whip and reins of a pony-phaeton.
The revolution has naturalized in France many political phrases, but
long before that French ears and the French palate had grown used to
punch, or _ponche_ as they called it, and both sexes had become
accustomed to cover up their costume with the _redingote_, or English
riding-coat. Tea canes and hats were ultimately adopted, also from
England.
The revolution in England, and the round-head ideas it evolved, had much
simplified English costume, and by the Anglo-mania this simplicity was
now reflected back on France, and continued to as late a day as the
revolution. In 1786 the English costume was frequently seen in the
streets of Paris, and contributed in a great degree to dissipate the air
of pretension which yet animated French society. The English boot was
adopted almost universally, and gaiters became as common as in London.
The loose locks of the English sailors were also imitated, and this was
a severe blow on the old costume, an important portion of which was the
_coiffure_. The three-cornered cocked was replaced by the jockey’s round
hat, a ridiculous and ungainly thing which no taste can make becoming,
and no art make comfortable. The probability, however, is that it will
become universal, and that some day all the world will wear this
head-piece.
This mutual imitation continued until the adoption of Napoleon’s
Continental system, which, as is well known, separated England from all
intercourse with Europe. When peace had put an end to the long wars this
system had occasioned, and Englishmen again came on the Continent, their
appearance struck each other as supremely ludicrous, as the apparition
of one of our own grandfathers in the gigantic waistcoat and the bag wig
they wore would seem to us in a modern drawing-room.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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