Graham's Magazine, Vol. XXXIV, No. 4, April 1849Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XXXIV, No. 4, April 1849
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
It is worth while to state that costumes, like opinions, reproduce
themselves. As the ideas which were once in vogue, and have been
abandoned, return and resume their influence and orthodoxy, so do the
costumes of other days continually reappear, it is true, with a
difference often striking enough, for men no longer wear either coats of
mail or inexpressibles of velvet, yet the Norman cloak of the Black
Prince, and the _sack_ of Lauzun, the handsome French colonel, who,
during our own Revolutionary war, turned the heads and carried away the
hearts of half the women of Philadelphia, are still every day to be
seen.
The same thing is observable in female costume. The long waists, tight
sleeves and full skirts of old times have returned, and even the
ungainly ruffs of Queen Elizabeth’s age have shown a disposition to
return. The mode of dressing the hair is also retracing itself, so that
there is little real difference between the traditional court-dress of
former times and that of every-day life worn at present, except the
train.
The following is a caricature of that day, but scarcely more outré than
the bearded creatures from time to time seen in our own streets. It may
be remarked that the passion for hair on the face always is consequent
on a war. In the time of Henri IV, all the world was bearded; so during
the days of Cromwell were his ironsides, and now men who never saw a
shot fired, force the sublime into the ridiculous, by parading a
moustache in every thoroughfare throughout the country.
[Illustration]
Who knows but that our own Mexican war may exert an influence on dress,
and that some day the Ranchero’s striped blanket and broad-brimmed hat
may become the fashion. Men will stalk about the streets in boots of
cow-hide, and instead of hunting with dogs and rifles, the _lazo_ or
_lariette_ will be adopted universally. All the world knows that
immediately after the return of the army of the Duke of Wellington to
England, from Waterloo, the military black stock was adopted, and it may
be that the green pantaloons with the brown stripe, now worn, are an
imitation of the dress of the Mexican veterans who were defeated at
Cherebusco. The same may be said of the cloth caps, with the covers of
oil-skin, now so much in vogue. It may be remarked that this article of
dress has always followed the _tenue_ of the army, the flat cap
replacing the hussar’s, as the latter did the old gig-top leather
apparatus.
Other nations of Europe did not participate in the French Revolution,
but became imitators of the costumes it created. We have now come to the
period of the Directory, which exerted its influence on costume, or
rather the influence of which was reflected by the costume of the day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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