Gray Days and Gold in England and ScotlandWinter, William
General
Gray Days and Gold in England and Scotland
Winter, William
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Literary landmarks -- Great Britain
Bamborough churchyard.) Imagination, however, has done for this region
what history could never do. Each foot of this ground was known to Sir
Walter Scott, and for every lover of that great author each foot of it
is hallowed. It is the Border Land,--the land of chivalry and song, the
land that he has endeared to all the world,--and you come to it mainly
for his sake.
"Day set on Norhams castled steep,
And Tweed's fair river, broad and deep,
And Cheviot's mountains lone."
[Illustration: _Norham Castle--in the time of Marmion._]
The village of Norham lies a few miles west of Berwick, upon the south
bank of the Tweed,--a group of cottages clustered around a single long
street. The buildings are low and are mostly roofed with dark slate or
red tiles. Some of them are thatched, and grass and flowers grow wild
upon the thatch. At one end of the main highway is a market-cross,
near to which is a little inn. Beyond that and nearer to the Tweed,
which flows close beside the place, is a church of great antiquity,
set toward the western end of a long and ample churchyard, in which
many graves are marked with tall, thick, perpendicular slabs, many with
dark, oblong tombs, tumbling to ruin, and many with short, stunted
monuments. The church tower is low, square, and of enormous strength.
Upon the south side of the chancel are five windows, beautifully
arched,--the dog-toothed casements being uncommonly complete specimens
of that ancient architectural device. This church has been restored;
the south aisle in 1846, by I. Bononi; the north aisle in 1852, by E.
Gray. The western end of the churchyard is thickly masked in great
trees, and looking directly east from this point your gaze falls upon
all that is left of the stately Castle of Norham, formerly called
Ublanford,--built by Flamberg, Bishop of Durham, in 1121, and restored
by Hugh Pudsey, another Prince of that See, in 1164. It must once have
been a place of tremendous fortitude and of great extent. Now it is
wide open to the sky, and nothing of it remains but roofless walls
and crumbling arches, on which the grass is growing and the pendent
bluebells tremble in the breeze. Looking through the embrasures of
the east wall you see the tops of large trees that are rooted in the
vast trench below, where once were the dark waters of the moat. All
the courtyards are covered now with sod, and quiet sheep nibble and
lazy cattle couch where once the royal banners floated and plumed
and belted knights stood round their king. It was a day of uncommon
beauty,--golden with sunshine and fresh with a perfumed air; and
nothing was wanting to the perfection of solitude. Near at hand a thin
stream of pale blue smoke curled upward from a cottage chimney. At some
distance the sweet voices of playing children mingled with the chirp
of small birds and the occasional cawing of the rook. The long grasses
that grow upon the ruin moved faintly, but made no sound. A few doves
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