Gray Days and Gold in England and ScotlandWinter, William
General
Gray Days and Gold in England and Scotland
Winter, William
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Literary landmarks -- Great Britain
Stratford-upon-Avon, August 27, 1889.--Among the many charming rambles
that may be enjoyed in the vicinity of Stratford, the ramble to
Wootton-Wawen and Henley-in-Arden is not least delightful. Both those
places are on the Birmingham road; the former six miles, the latter
eight miles, from Stratford. When you stand upon the bridge at Wootton
you are only one hundred miles from London, but you might be in a
wilderness a thousand miles from any city, for in all the slumberous
scene around you there is no hint of anything but solitude and peace.
Close by a cataract tumbles over the rocks and fills the air with
music. Not far distant rises the stately front of Wootton Hall, an old
manor-house, surrounded with green lawns and bowered by majestic elms,
which has always been a Roman Catholic abode, and which is never leased
to any but Roman Catholic tenants. A cosy, gabled house, standing among
trees and shrubs a little way from the roadside, is the residence of
the priest of this hamlet,--an antiquarian and a scholar, of ample
acquirements and fine talent. Across the meadows, in one direction,
peers forth a fine specimen of the timbered cottage of ancient
times,--the black beams conspicuous upon a white surface of plaster.
Among the trees, in another direction, appears the great gray tower of
Wootton-Wawen church, a venerable pile and one in which, by means of
the varying orders of its architecture, you may, perhaps, trace the
whole ecclesiastical history of England. The approach to that church
is through a green lane and a wicket-gate, and when you come near to
it you find that it is surrounded with many graves, some marked and
some unmarked, on all of which the long grass waves in rank luxuriance
and whispers softly in the summer breeze. The place seems deserted.
Not a human creature is anywhere visible, and the only sound that
breaks the stillness of this August afternoon is the cawing of a few
rooks in the lofty tops of the neighbouring elms. The actual life of
all places, when you come to know it well, proves to be, for the most
part, conventional, commonplace, and petty. Human beings, with here and
there an exception, are dull and tedious, each resembling the other,
and each needlessly laborious to increase that resemblance. In this
respect all parts of the world are alike,--and therefore the happiest
traveller is he who keeps mostly alone, and uses his eyes, and communes
with his own thoughts. The actual life of Wootton is, doubtless, much
like that of other hamlets,--a "noiseless tenor" of church squabbles,
village gossip, and discontented grumbling, diversified with feeding
and drinking, lawn tennis, matrimony, birth, and death. But as I looked
around upon this group of nestling cottages, these broad meadows,
green and cool in the shadow of the densely mantled trees, and
this ancient church, gray and faded with antiquity, slowly crumbling to
pieces amid the fresh and everlasting vitality of nature, I felt that
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account