Greater Britain: A Record of Travel in English-Speaking Countries During 1866-7Dilke, Charles Wentworth, Sir
History
Greater Britain: A Record of Travel in English-Speaking Countries During 1866-7
Dilke, Charles Wentworth, Sir
Great Britain -- Colonies -- History -- 19th century; United States -- Description and travel; Voyages around the world
The coaching on this line is beyond comparison the best the world can
show. Drawn by six half-bred mustangs, driven by whips of the fame of
the Hank Monk “who drove Greeley,” the mails and passengers have been
conveyed from Virginia City to the rail at Placerville, 154 miles, in 15
hours and 20 minutes, including a stoppage of half an hour for supper,
and sixteen shorter stays to change horses. In this distance, the Sierra
Nevada has to be traversed in a rapid rise of three thousand feet, a
fall of a thousand feet, another rise of the same, and then a descent of
five thousand feet on the Californian side.
[Illustration: FRIDAY‘S STATION--VALLEY OF LAKE TAHOE.--P. 176.]
Before the road was made, the passage was one of extraordinary
difficulty. A wagon once started, they say, from Folsom, bearing “Carson
or bust” in large letters upon the tilt. After ten days, it returned
lamely enough, with four of the twelve oxen gone, and bearing the label
“Busted.”
When we were nearing Hank Monk‘s “piece,” I became impatient to see the
hero of the famous ride. What was my disgust when the driver of the
earlier portion of the road appeared again upon the box in charge of six
magnificent iron-grays. The peremptory cry of “All aboard” brought me
without remonstrance to the coach, but I took care to get upon the box,
although, as we were starting before the break of day, the frost was
terrible. To my relief, when I inquired after Hank, the driver said that
he was at a ball at a timber ranch in the forest “six mile on.” At early
light we reached the spot--the summit of the more eastern of the twin
ranges of the Sierra. Out came Hank, amid the cheers of the half dozen
men and women of the timber ranch who formed the “ball,” wrapped up to
the eyes in furs, and took the reins without a word. For miles he drove
steadily and moodily along. I knew these drivers top well to venture
upon speaking first when they were in the sulks; at last, however, I
lost all patience, and silently offered him a cigar. He took it without
thanking me, but after a few minutes said: “Thet last driver, how did he
drive?” I made some shuffling answer, when he cut in: “Drove as ef he
were skeert; and so he was. Look at them mustangs. Yoo--ou!” As he
yelled, the horses started at what out here they style “the run;” and
when, after ten minutes, he pulled up, we must have done three miles,
round most violent and narrow turns, with only the bare precipice at the
side, and a fall of often a hundred feet to the stream at the bottom of
the ravine--the Simplon without its wall. Dropping into the talking
mood, he asked me the usual questions as to my business, and whither I
was bound. When I told him I thought of visiting Australia, he said,
“D‘you tell now! Jess give my love--at Bendigo--to Gumption Dick.” Not
another word about Australia or Gumption Dick could I draw from him. I
asked at Bendigo for Dick; but not even the officer in command of the
police had ever heard of Hank Monk‘s friend.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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