Greater Britain: A Record of Travel in English-Speaking Countries During 1866-7Dilke, Charles Wentworth, Sir
History
Greater Britain: A Record of Travel in English-Speaking Countries During 1866-7
Dilke, Charles Wentworth, Sir
Great Britain -- Colonies -- History -- 19th century; United States -- Description and travel; Voyages around the world
Down South I saw clearly the truth of a thought that struck me before I
had been ten minutes west of the Sierra Pass. California is Saxon only
in the looks and language of the people of its towns. In Pennsylvania,
you may sometimes fancy yourself in Sussex; while in New England, you
seem only to be in some part of Europe that you have never happened to
light upon before; in California, you are at last in a new world. The
hills are weirdly peaked or flattened, the skies are new, the birds and
plants are new; the atmosphere, crisp though warm, is unlike any in the
world but that of South Australia. It will be strange if the Pacific
coast does not produce a new school of Saxon poets--painters it has
already given to the world.
Returning to Placerville, after an eventless exploration of the
exquisite scenery to the south, I took the railway once again, for the
first time since I had left Manhattan City--1800 miles away--and was
soon in Sacramento, the State capital, now recovering slowly from the
flood of 1862. Near the city I made out Oak Grove--famed for duels
between well-known Californians. Here it was that General Denver, State
Senator, shot Mr. Gilbert, the representative in Congress, in a duel
fought with rifles. Here, too, it was that Mr. Thomas, district attorney
for Placer County, killed Dr. Dickson, of the Marine Hospital, in a duel
with pistols in 1854. Records of duels form a serious part of the State
history. At Lone Mountain Cemetery near San Francisco, there is a great
marble monument to the Hon. David Broderick, shot by Chief Justice
Terry, of the Supreme Court, in 1859.
A few hours’ quiet steaming in the sunlight down the Sacramento River,
past Rio Vista and Montezuma, through the gap in the Contra Costa Range,
at which the grand volcanic peak of Monte Diablo stands sentinel
watching over the Martinez Straits, and there opened to the south and
west a vast mountain-surrounded bay. Volumes of cloud were rolling in
unceasingly from the ocean, through the Golden Gate, past the fortified
island of Alcatras, and spending themselves in the opposite shores of
San Rafael, Benicia, and Vallejo. At last I was across the continent,
and face to face with the Pacific.
CHAPTER XXI.
LYNCH LAW.
“Californians are called the scum of the earth, yet their great city is
the best policed in the world,” said a New York friend to me, when he
heard that I thought of crossing the continent to San Francisco.
“Them New Yorkers is a sight too fond of looking after other people‘s
morals,” replied an old “Forty-niner,” to whom I repeated this phrase,
having first toned it down however. “Still,” he went on, “our history‘s
baddish, but it ain‘t for us to play showman to our own worst
pints:--let every man skin his own skunk!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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