Greater Britain: A Record of Travel in English-Speaking Countries During 1866-7Dilke, Charles Wentworth, Sir
History
Greater Britain: A Record of Travel in English-Speaking Countries During 1866-7
Dilke, Charles Wentworth, Sir
Great Britain -- Colonies -- History -- 19th century; United States -- Description and travel; Voyages around the world
Panama is a picturesque time-worn Spanish city, that rises abruptly from
the sea in a confused pile of decaying bastions and decayed cathedrals,
while a dense jungle of mangrove and bamboo threatens to bury it in rich
greenery. The forest is filled with baboons and lizards of gigantic
size, and is gay with the bright plumage of the toucans and macaws,
while, within the walls, every housetop bears its living load of hideous
turkey-buzzards, foul-winged and bloodshot-eyed.
It was the rainy season (which here, indeed, lasts for three-quarters of
the year), and each day was an alternation of shower-bath, and
vapor-bath with sickly sun. On the first night of my stay, there was a
lunar rainbow, which I went on to the roof of the hotel to watch. The
misty sky was white with the reflected light of the hidden moon, which
was obscured by an inky cloud, that seemed a tunnel through the heavens.
In a few minutes I was driven from my post by the tropical rain.
At the railway station, I parted from my Californian friends, who were
bound for Aspinwall, and thence by steamer to New York. A stranger scene
it has not often been my fortune to behold. There cannot have been less
than a thousand natives, wearing enormous hats and little else, and
selling everything, from linen suits to the last French novel. A tame
jaguar, a pelican, parrots, monkeys, pearls, shells, flowers, green
cocoa-nuts and turtles, mangoes and wild dogs, were among the things for
sale. The station was guarded by the army of the Republic of New
Granada, consisting of five officers, a bugler, a drummer, and nineteen
privates. Six of the men wore red trowsers and dirty shirts for uniform;
the rest dressed as they pleased, which was generally in Adamic style.
Not even the officers had shoes; and of the twenty-one men, one was a
full-blooded Indian, some ten were negroes, and the remainder
nondescripts, but among them was of course an Irishman from Cork or
Kilkenny. After the train had started, the troops formed, and marched
briskly through the town, the drummer trotting along some twenty yards
before the company, French-fashion, and beating the _retraite_. The
French invalids from Acapulco, who were awaiting in Panama the arrival
of an Imperial frigate at Aspinwall, stood in the streets to see the New
Granadans pass, twirling their moustaches, and smiling grimly. One old
drum-major, lean and worn with fever, turned to me, and, shrugging his
shoulders, pointed to his side: the Granadans had their bayonets tied on
with string.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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