Greater Britain: A Record of Travel in English-Speaking Countries During 1866-7Dilke, Charles Wentworth, Sir
History
Greater Britain: A Record of Travel in English-Speaking Countries During 1866-7
Dilke, Charles Wentworth, Sir
Great Britain -- Colonies -- History -- 19th century; United States -- Description and travel; Voyages around the world
If Geelong be standing still, which in a colony is the same as rapid
decline would be with us, the famed wheat country around it seems as
inexhaustible as it ever was. The whole of the Barrabool range, from
Ceres to Mount Moriac, is one great golden waving sheet, save where it
is broken by the stunted claret-vineyards. Here and there I came upon a
group of the little daughters of the German vine-dressers, tending and
trenching the plants, with the round eyes, rosy cheeks, and shiny
pigtails of their native Rudesheim all flourishing beneath the Southern
Cross.
The colonial vines are excellent; better, indeed, than the growths of
California, which, however, they resemble in general character. The
wines are naturally all Burgundies, and colonial imitations of claret,
port, and sherry are detestable, and the hocks but little better. The
Albury hermitage is a better wine than can be bought in Europe at its
price, but in some places this wine is sold as Murray Burgundy, while
the dealers foist horrible stuff upon you under the name of hermitage.
Of the wines of New South Wales, White Dallwood is a fair Sauterne, and
White Cawarra a good Chablis, while for sweet wines the Chasselas is
singularly cheap; and the Tokay, the Shiraz, and the still Muscat are
remarkable.
Northwest of Geelong, upon the summit of the foot-hills of the dividing
range, lies Ballarat, the headquarters of deep quartz mining, and now no
longer a diggers’ camp, but a graceful city, full of shady boulevards
and noble buildings, and with a stationary population of thirty
thousand. My first visit was made in the company of the prime ministers
of all the colonies, who were at Melbourne nominally for a conference,
but really to enjoy a holiday and the International Exhibition. With
that extraordinary generosity in the spending of other people‘s money
which distinguishes colonial cabinets, the Victorian government placed
special trains, horses, carriages, and hotels at our disposal, the
result of which was that, fêted everywhere, we saw nothing, and I had to
return to Ballarat in order even to go through the mines.
In visiting Lake Learmouth and Clunes, and the mining district on each
side of Ballarat, I found myself able to discover the date of settlement
by the names of places, as one finds the age of a London suburb by the
titles of its terraces. The dates run in a wave across the country. St.
Arnaud is a town between Ballarat and Castlemaine, and Alma lies near to
it, while Balaklava Hill is near Ballarat, where also are Raglan and
Sebastopol. Inkerman lies close to Castlemaine, and Mount Cathcart bears
the name of the general killed at the Two Gun battery, while the
Malakhoff diggings, discovered doubtless toward the end of the war, lie
to the northward, in the Wimmera.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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