I was not long in taking leave of Aguascalientes, and heard nothing more of the impressment of my mules. It was not my good fortune, however, to remain for any length of time out of trouble. Being anxious to take the city of Zacatecas in my route without jeopardizing my goods, I took passage by the _diligencia_, while my wagons continued on in {98} the _camino real_ or main road. On my arrival at Zacatecas, I very soon discovered that by leaving 'my bed and board' behind with the wagons, I had doomed myself to no small inconvenience and privation. It was with the greatest difficulty I could obtain a place to lie upon, and [Pg173] clean victuals with which to allay my hunger. I could get a room, it is true, even for a _real_ per day, in one of those great barn-like _mesones_ which are to be met with in all these cities, but not one of them was at all furnished. There is sometimes, in a corner, a raised platform of mud, much resembling a common blacksmith's hearth, which is to supply the place of a bedstead, upon which the traveller may spread his blankets, if he happen to have any. On this occasion I succeeded in borrowing one or two of the stage-driver who was a Yankee, and so made out 'pretty comfortably' in the sleeping way. These _mesones_ are equally ill-prepared to furnish food for the traveller, unless he is willing to put up with a dish of _frijoles_ and _chile guisado_ with _tortillas_, all served up in the most filthy manner. I therefore sought out a public _fonda_ kept by an Italian, where I procured an excellent supper. Fondas, however, are mere _restaurants_, and consequently without accommodations for lodging. Strange as the fact may appear, one may travel fifteen hundred miles, and perhaps more, on the main public highway through Northern Mexico, without finding a single tavern with general accommodations. This, however, may {99} be accounted for, by taking into consideration the peculiar mode of travelling of the country, which renders resorts of this kind almost unnecessary. _Arrieros_ with their _atajos_ of pack-mules always camp out, being provided with their cooks and stock of provisions, which they carry with them. Ordinary travellers generally unite in little caravans, for security against robbers and marauders; and no caballero ever stirs abroad without a train of servants, and a pack-mule to carry his _cantinas_ (a pair of large wallets or leathern boxes), filled with provisions, on the top of which is lashed a huge machine containing a mattress and all the other 'fixings' for bed furniture. Thus equipped, the [Pg174] caballero snaps his fingers at all the _hotels garnis_ of the universe, and is perfectly independent in every movement.