Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketchBrigham, William Tufts
History
Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketch
Brigham, William Tufts
Central America -- Bibliography; Guatemala -- Antiquities; Guatemala -- Description and travel
Our own bath, an open pool some fifty by a hundred feet, was of a depth
increasing from three to eight feet. A high brick wall bounded one side,
and we were told that beyond this was a bath for women. A shed in which
to undress, and a tile platform on which to dry one’s self, was all the
apparatus; but the water was cool and of a wonderful clearness, and
we prolonged our swim. The fee was only a medio (five cents). In the
season, which extends from December to March, doubtless the crowd is
disagreeable; but we had the pool entirely to ourselves.
After almuerzo we started for Amatitlan; and a weary, dusty road it was,
although the main road to the capital from the port. Frank’s mare seemed
as though sunstruck, and sank down powerless by the road. Fortunately
we were near a brook. We poured cool water on her head, and she soon
recovered. We met great herds of cattle on their way from the dry uplands
to the juicy pastures of the lowlands, and also stages full of miserable
people, shaken and dusty, and with the look one might fancy a soul in
purgatory would assume,—always supposing it had a face.
The Falls of the Michatoya by the roadside relieved the monotony of the
way, but were not so beautiful as I had expected from Stephens’s account.
We found the rails of the ferro-carril laid as far as Palin;[24] and it
was graded beyond Amatitlan, on its way to Guatemala City, which it has
since (1886) reached. Basaltic rock was abundant along the road, and so
were beehives,—generally made from a hollow log and hung horizontally
under the eaves of the houses. Honey, costing us a medio a quart, was
very good; wax, however, is a more valuable product, as it plays a very
important part in the service of religion, masses costing so many pounds
of wax candles. The bees seem to be quite inoffensive, and the hives
often hung close to the house-doors. Sugar estates were common in this
district, the water-power being generally furnished by the Michatoya
river. The chimneys of the _ingenios_ did not indicate severe or frequent
earthquakes here. Oranges, not of the finest quality, sold at three cents
a dozen. Late in the afternoon we passed some cochineal plantations in a
rather neglected state, and soon after entered Amatitlan, where we found
a pretty little posada. Our mozos, who were fine fellows, were not far
behind us. The barometer told us that we were 3,650 feet above San José.
[Illustration: Section of Boat at Amatitlan.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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