Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketchBrigham, William Tufts
History
Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketch
Brigham, William Tufts
Central America -- Bibliography; Guatemala -- Antiquities; Guatemala -- Description and travel
those ancient Japanese bronzes used for the same purpose. In the library
are many valuable manuscripts, mostly unpublished, but of interest to the
historian and antiquarian.
Almost worn out with sight-seeing, we stopped at a restaurant near by,
and with our lunch had some native _cerveza negra_,—an unpleasant beer
brewed from molasses. We had lost the cock-fight; but there was to be
a bull-fight in the afternoon, to which we were strangely attracted,
and we purchased seats under the roof at three reals, walking over to
the Plaza de Toros at four o’clock. There was a fair audience—perhaps
six or seven thousand—in the immense circular building or enclosure. As
an overture we had an exhibition-drill. The soldiers wore red jackets,
blue trousers, and white caps and cross-belts. The evolutions were well
done to the bugle-notes, and the whole performance was to me much like
a ballet,—simply a complicated series of preconcerted movements of the
human body.
A horseman clad in black, mounted on a superb white horse, then rode
across the ring and formally asked leave of the Chief of the Corrida to
open the games. The Chief tossed him a roll of colored paper, which he
carried to the Amador del Toro and then backed gracefully out of the
enclosure. Then came the Espada, Manuel Aguilar of Seville, with three
Banderilleros and as many Picadores, followed by horses, mules, and
mozos. There were only five “bulls,” of which three were oxen,—and they
might all have been, for any fight they showed. The Picadores did their
work, and the Primero Espada did some excellent dodging; but this did
not satisfy us, so bloodthirsty had we become. At first we wanted to
have a horse killed, and at last nothing short of the death of a man
would satisfy us. But we were not to see anything of the kind; and after
the bulls had trotted about the Plaza until half-past five, the show
was over, and the unsatisfied audience dispersed. What would a Roman
audience have done in the Flavian amphitheatre, had their wild-beast
propensities been thus excited and disappointed? So far as the City of
Guatemala is concerned, the bull-fight is growing unfashionable, and
even with the populace such uninteresting shows cannot long attract. The
Guatemaltecans should import some of the fashionable “Cribb Clubs” of our
Northern cities, if they still wish to see human blood flow. At present
there is more brutality in the sparring exhibitions of Boston than in the
bull-fights of the Central American city.
Our day was not yet ended; and as we crossed the Plaza in the evening,
on returning from a call on a friend, we found the pavement crowded with
people and dotted with little fires, over which various Indios were
cooking doughnuts, fritters, and chocolate. The fritters were eaten with
plenty of honey, and were very palatable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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