Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketchBrigham, William Tufts
History
Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketch
Brigham, William Tufts
Central America -- Bibliography; Guatemala -- Antiquities; Guatemala -- Description and travel
There was no posada, so our boy declared, and we had to try the _cabildo_
for the first time. The _Escuela por Niños_, or “school for ninnies,” as
Frank persisted in calling it, was placed at our disposal; but the floor
was bare, hard concrete, and we had no mats, while there was no chance to
hang our hammocks. It was not inviting; but one of the attendants kindly
brought two mahogany settees from the court-room, and this was so hard
a couch that one might be pardoned for going to bed with boots on,—and
mine were so wet that I feared I should not get them on in the morning if
they once came off. We needed food quite as much as a bed, and at last
found rolls and coffee at a little shop near at hand. At four o’clock in
the morning there was an earthquake, which did not wake Frank, though it
jarred my bed as though some one had run against it in the dark. This
shock was felt, as we afterwards found, at Coban, San Cristobal, and for
miles around. Slight earthquakes are said to be common enough here, but
we saw no evidence of severe ones.
In the morning at half-past five, while Roberto was saddling the horses,
we visited the church and found many curiously carved and gilded
altar-pieces. After performing our ablutions in a puddle in the road,
left by the last night’s rain, we got our coffee and hastened on our way,
as it was Friday, and we still had twelve miles to ride to Coban.
This city, although at an elevation of 4,500 feet, is surrounded by much
higher hills; and from the pass over which the road winds, the view of
the surrounding coffee-region is very fine. The streams were in flood,
and some of the lower plantations were under water. Near the town we
saw the method of raising coffee-plants under frames covered with dried
ferns. Crossing a good bridge, we came up a paved street, and soon after
ten o’clock rode into the Hotel Aleman, where we had a very comfortable
room and two beds with sheets and pillow-cases,—the first we had seen
since we left Livingston; and we were not now compelled to sleep in
our clothes. Our breakfast was the best we had found since we had been
in the country, and consisted of soup, sausages, _frijoles negras_,
wheaten rolls, fried plantains, _tortillas tostadas_, tomato salad, fried
potatoes, and good coffee. The potatoes here are native, seldom larger
than an English walnut, and very mealy. In the patio of the hotel bloomed
roses and violets.
[Illustration: In Hotel Aleman.]
[Illustration: Plan of the Hotel Aleman.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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