Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of bothDoran, Dr. (John)
Philosophy
Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of both
Doran, Dr. (John)
Manners and customs
Such is said to have been really the fate of the little prisoner who used
to mend the garments of M. de Bohun in the prison of Orléans; of the
_costumier_ of the court masquerades at the Congress of Vienna; and of
the wandering adventurer in distant seas, where he could find no one who
would either acknowledge his fiats or accept his fashions. He was unable
to establish himself in the world either as monarch of men or as makers
of their habits.
And having thus spoken of a mock king, let us consider now our English
liege ladies at their respective toilets.
THE TIRING-BOWERS OF QUEENS.
“I could accuse the gaiety of your wardrobe
And prodigal embroideries, under which
Rich satins, plushes, cloth of silver, dare
Not show their own complexions; your jewels,
Able to burn out the spectators’ eyes,
And show like bonfires on you, by the tapers:
Something might here be spared, with safety of
Your birth and honour, since the truest wealth
Shines from the soul, and draws up just admirers.”
SHIRLEY.
Let us not presume to look into the primitive boudoirs of the Queens
before the Conquest, and only reverently into those of the sovereign
ladies who succeeded. “Tread lightly, this is sacred ground!” is an
injunction not to be forgotten in this locality.
The first Queen after the Norman invasion, Matilda of Flanders, who was
pummelled into loving her ungallant wooer William, had a costly wardrobe.
Before her death she disposed of the most valuable of her garments by
will, and named therein the dressmaker who had provided them for her,
a species of advertisement that ought to have made Madame Alderet’s
fortune. “I give,” says the royal testatrix, “to the Abbey of the Holy
Trinity my tunic, worked at Winchester, by Alderet’s wife; and the mantle
embroidered with gold, which is in my chamber, to make a cope. Of my two
golden girdles, I give that which is ornamented with emblems, for the
purpose of suspending the lamp before the great altar.” The abbey named
was at Caen, and the nuns connected therewith came in for all Matilda’s
petticoats,—no indifferent legacy, for they were stiff with gold and
dust. She was an elegant dresser, as far as outside show was concerned.
Rufus was a bachelor, and the ladies who frequented his uproarious court
were remarkable for their adoption of garments which very much disgusted
the sober ladies of Saxon times. Matilda of Scotland, wife of Henry I.,
being graceful of form, was given to wear tight kirtles, and may be
said to have brought in tight lacing. Henry’s second wife, Adalicia of
Louvaine, imitated the fashion set by her predecessor. On the King’s
death, she espoused the hereditary cupbearer, William de Albini, surnamed
Fortembras; and if she dressed a trifle less gloriously in her bower
at Arundel Castle, she at least became there the mother of a numerous
progeny, who grew up and gave the fashions to the entire county of Sussex.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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