Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of bothDoran, Dr. (John)
Philosophy
Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of both
Doran, Dr. (John)
Manners and customs
The second toilet he describes as a game invented by coquetry. If faces
be thus made before a glass, it was, he says, with a studied grace. It
was not contemplation, but admiration. If the finger was run through
the long curls, it was only for effect, for they had already been duly
arranged and perfumed. It was at this second toilet that the world was
present. The lovers fluttered round the half-dressed object of what
they called their love,—and that object was only a quarter dressed,
and looking not unlike Anadyomene herself as to form and feature and
position, but with a glance in her eyes and a significance in her bearing
that bespoke much more the Venus Pandemia than the Venus Ourania. And
there too were the abbés, who were permanent lovers wheresoever they
were to be found; they were of all sizes and conditions of health,
but they were all, without exception, gay, gallant, witty, impudent,
and blasphemous beyond all belief, and happily beyond all conception.
Reputations were made and unmade at these morning toilets; and as for the
detail of the dressing, while the _coquet_ and _causerie_ were going on,
it was very like that which Pope has so brilliantly described in the Rape
of the Lock, and in which a reputation died at every word.
In modern days France has become more than ever the locality where the
Popess Fashion is enthroned, and whose slipper is reverently kissed by
a devoted world. Parenthetically may I say that the custom of kissing
the Pontiff’s slipper arose from the time when one of the Leos, having
been offended by an act of one of his fingers, cut it off, and in his
strange humility would no longer permit his hand to be saluted by the
faithful. That was a queer cause for a strange fashion; but it rests
only on legendary authority. In France causes as strange, sometimes more
and sometimes less pleasant, have fixed the fashion of the hour. Last
century,—that is to say, during something more than the traditionary
“nine days” of that century,—the rage in Paris was for pantaloons made,
from aloes, the colour of a lady’s finger-nails, between rosy tint and
delicate blue.
France not only gave the fashion for fine dresses, but also prescribed
how people should visit in them. It was in Paris, about the year 1770,
that was introduced the custom of visiting _en blanc_, as it was called;
that is by leaving a card. The old ladies and gentlemen who loved to show
their costume, called this fashion fantastic; but it has its advantages,
and, though sometimes anti-social, is perhaps generally less so than it
at first sight appears. Society would often gain nothing by the closer
contact of individuals.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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