England -- Antiquities, Roman; Hadrian's Wall (England); Walls, Roman -- England
Bowness is a quiet little place, standing high up above the Solway,
with steep cobbled streets and many clay houses, "whose walls," said
an old inhabitant to me, "are as thick as my stick is long." As seen
from the ridge above the road to the west of the village, eight
strips of colour, gradually receding, make up my impression of the
view. {221} First a strip of white road, then a strip of green
grass; beyond that, a strip of yellow gorse; behind the gorse, a
strip of marshland, pink with sea-thrift; then a strip of yellow dry
sand, then a strip of brown wet sand; beyond that the blue water of
the Solway, and, last of all, the blue-grey distance of Scotland.
There were fishing-smacks on the Solway, and there were fishermen
fishing with their "half-nets" for salmon and trout.
Camden says of this part: "I marvailed at first, why they built here
so great fortifications, considering that for eight miles or
thereabout, there lieth opposite a very great frith and arme of the
sea; but now I understand that every ebbe the water is so low, that
the Borderers and beast-stealers may easily wade over." And he
records how, in 1216, they came, and having stayed too long were
swept away by the tide. His quaint words (or rather, Dr. Philemon
Holland's quaint translation of them) are worth quoting:
"For Eden, that notable river, * * * powreth forth into a mighty
masse of water, having not yet forgotten what adoe it had to pass
away, struggling and wrestling as it did, among the carcasses of
freebutters, lying dead in it on heapes, in the yeer of salvation,
1216, when it swallowed them up, loaden with booties out of England,
and so buried that rabble of robbers under his waves."
{222} I searched about for the end of the Wall, where it was supposed
to run northwards into the water, and was just about to give it up in
despair, when I saw an old lady in a black sunbonnet leaning over the
gate of a pretty little cottage. I got into conversation with her,
and then of her own accord she told me that the Roman Wall ended in
her garden, "behind that apple-tree." She spoke of the gentlemen who
had come to investigate, and how they had followed it down from her
garden to the shore, by the old schoolhouse, which is now used by the
fishermen for keeping their nets. She added: "There's not many that
sets any store by the Roman Wall here--only me."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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