It is so much easier to smash stones than to live the Christian life! No doubt the smashing was sometimes a symbolic act, to indicate the renunciation of the old pagan habits, and to remove temptation. I was very sorry to take leave of the Wall; perhaps even more sorry to take leave of the kindly friends I had made. I met with many instances of the blunt outspokenness of the northern character, but never with a spark of rudeness nor unpleasant familiarity. As I travelled south in the train, I remembered what Hutton has said: that the Wall "would exhibit its proud head many thousand years"; but that the mounds of the Vallum, "being native earth, would continue to the last trump." {241} Is this indeed so? Is it, for example, possible that the bunkers on the golf-links I was then passing are the most enduring portion of our civilization? Will pilgrims in the far distant future travel hundreds and thousands of miles to see these, our only contemporary "earth-works," as to a shrine, wondering what great chiefs are buried under them? It might be so, if "native earth" were indeed the most enduring form of construction. But I beg leave to doubt it. Back in London, it seemed cold and dull at first. I missed the freedom of the Wall, where every one I met had said, "It's a gran' day, the day," as naturally as they had smiled as we passed each other. Ah! but London has a kind heart too, though circumstances prevent her from wearing it on her sleeve. Many have testified to this in the past, and will testify to it in the future. And therefore in London also there is much that we may surely count amongst the "things that endure." Old Londinium, older than the Romans, who colonized and fortified but did not found her, is dear to us, in spite of all her fog and smoke and turmoil, for of her also it is true that "Only the fashion of the soul remains." [Illustration: Map of Hadrian's Wall] {243} INDEX Æsica (Great Chesters), xix, 29, 142, 143-5. Agricola, 2, 3, 9-13, 17, 18, 77, 107, 153, 154, 180, 227, 230. Allectus, 16. Allolee, 145. AMBOGLANNA (Birdoswald), xviii, xix, 29, 30, 86, 166-9. "Amphitheatre" at House-steads, 116, 122. Antonine Wall, 15, 38, 230. Antoninus Pius, 12, 14, 169. Antoninus (son of Severus), 15. Apple-tree turret, 169. _Archæologia Æliana_, xvi. Askerton Castle, 235. Asturians, 29, 30, 92. Augustus, 7. Aulus Platorius Nepos, 14, 21. Aulus Plautius, 7, 8. Banks, village of, xviii, xix, 169, 171. Barcombe Hill, 21, 111, 126, 227. Bardon Mill, xix. Barracks in forts, 92, 122, 141. Basalt rock, 105, 112, 126, 127, 152. Batavians, cohort of, 29, 107. Bath-house at Chesters, 95. Baths in forts, 93. Beaumont, 204. Beck, 186. Bede, 22, 24, 68, 69. Benwell Hill, 29, 43, 47. Berm, or safety platform, 19, 34. Bewcastle, 154, 234-8; Cross, 237. Birdoswald, viii, xvi, xviii, 29, 30, 109, 154, 164. Black Carts Farm, 102. Blackgate Museum, Newcastle, 45, 158. Black Pasture Quarry, 72, 77.