England -- Antiquities, Roman; Hadrian's Wall (England); Walls, Roman -- England
Just then there was a little whispering between the landlady and a
man who had just arrived. She came forward. "This gentleman says
that he and his wife will be pleased to take you into Carlisle in
their car, if you would like." Would I like? Could there be any
doubt? I was still four miles from Carlisle, and it was now dark,
and still pouring. So I accepted gladly, and was very soon set down
in the city, at the door of a nice quiet Temperance Hotel, suitable
for a pilgrim in my sodden state.
The next morning was clear and bright, and I made an early start for
Old Wall, in order to follow the stretch of Wall I had missed because
of the rain.
I will describe the walk from east to west as {190} before, although
I traversed it first from west to east.
As I drew near to Bleatarn from Old Wall, I noticed a tawny-brown
duck-pond on the right. This was part of the Wall-ditch.
Bleatarn itself is picturesquely situated on a grassy hill, above a
pond full of reeds (the "Blue Tarn"). The whitewashed farm-house is
very attractive. I called there for "a pot o' milk," as the guidwife
put it, and while she fetched it, I noticed through the open door
that the passage running through the house was not ceiled, but went
right up into the rafters, past two floors.
The Wall runs to the north of the farm-house and Tarn, so that it has
the steep grassy bank of the Tarn on its south side, and its own
ditch on the north. The latter is almost as bold in its proportions
here as at Gap.
The Vallum runs immediately south of the farm-house; and between it
and the Wall, on the west side of the farm-house, is a large mound.
This has been proved, by excavations made by Professor Haverfield and
Mr. and Mrs. Hodgson, to be rubbish from a quarry, worked in Roman
times, and still in use in mediæval times. Roman quarrymen's marks
were found; also mediæval pottery.
{191}
CHAPTER XVII
BLEATARN TO GRINSDALE
From Bleatarn the road runs on the Wall for some distance. The
undulating pastures are exchanged for a marshy common, covered with
gorse, brambles and heather, and known as "White Moss." Here the
Vallum is seen to have four mounds instead of only two. The ground
was too marshy to allow of the digging of a ditch, so they raised two
extra mounds to make a hollow between, the ditch being the objective.
At Bleatarn, where they get on to rock again, the four mounds slide
into two.
A Roman road crosses White Moss, and digging has shown that it was
made by laying grey clay on the original surface, then a layer of
coarse gravel, and fine gravel on the top of that.
At Wallhead the ditch is very clearly seen in the pasture-land. The
road on to Walby runs between hedges, and beyond it merges into a
grassy track, so much overgrown that it is evidently seldom trodden.
Near Wallhead it was muddy and full of puddles from last night's rain.
{192}
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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