Thus the journey, like the earlier one to Messina, brought the
indefatigable student into touch once more with a “philosophical
animal.” This alone would have made it well worth the trouble. How many
more of the kind the future might still have in reserve for him! In the
quiet months at Puerto del Arrecise, on Lanzarote, he was gradually
restored to his spiritual balance. Nature had taken much from him, but
she offered him an inexhaustible return. His elasticity and vigour of
frame had been restored before he left Teneriffe. In a twenty-two hours’
tour, only interrupted by two hours’ sleep, he had climbed to the
highest summit of the Peak, in such an unfavourable season (in the
November snow) that the native guides would not go any further in the
end; all those who were with him except one stopped short a little way
from the top. The short rest at the summit (4,128 yards above the
sea-level, on the icy edge of the crater) was greatly enjoyed by him. He
could see over a distance of 5,700 square miles, as much as one-fourth
of the whole of Spain. “The extraordinary range and height of the
horizon gives one a vague idea of the infinity of space. The deep
unbroken silence and the consciousness that we have left all animal and
vegetal life far behind, produce a profound feeling of solitude. One
feels oneself, with a certain pride, master of the situation that has
been secured with so much trouble and risk. But the next moment one
feels what we really are—momentary waves in the infinite ocean of life,
transitory combinations of a comparatively small number of organic
cells, which, in the last resort, owe their origin and significance to
the peculiar chemical properties of carbon. How small and mean at such
moments do we find the little play of human passions that unfolds itself
far below in the haunts of civilisation! How great and exalted in
comparison does free Nature seem, as it unrolls before us, in one vast
picture, the whole majesty and splendour of its creative power!” Thus he
himself describes the moment. Something of that feeling of exalted
solitude entered into his life. He stood firm and undazed—come what
might.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER VII
GROWTH OF IDEAS
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